It’s two years since my epic adventure around Europe. This year the adventure is around Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way. If you’re interested to ‘follow’ this trip, the link above will take you to the Blog which you can ‘follow’ using the link on the right hand side of the home page.
Hope to share with you soon …
Cheers – Phil
This movie clip brings to life the Blogs I have posted during my travels through Eastern Europe
This weather is unbelievable. This the longest run of sunshine I’ve had since I left the UK and today is much the same. I have a couple of short days now before a long push into Austria in three days time. Pacing myself so to speak. 
My goal is to make Zegreb in Croatia this afternoon, preferably early as I would like to explore the old town.
The ride from Banja Luka to the Border is nothing special but still a pleasant ride.
There must be something in the water at the border because both the Bosnian exit and Croatian entry officers had attitude problems.
Maybe he had heat stroke, as his job was standing in the middle of the bridge in the sun stopping everyone.. He was snatching everyone’s passport – I notice these things – sorry, there’s no need for it.. So when he handed mine back to me, I snatched it as fast as I could.. you should have seen his face .. 
100 meters further and the Croation female officer was surly and just as rude.. That’s it. I Iet fly., nothing profound just that it wasn’t appropriate for a first point of contact entering a country to be rude.. At least I think it went something like that.. Maybe a few descriptive words as well..
Anyway I’m in and moving on towards Zegreb.
Wow – I’m alive again because the country roads are twisting, falling and rising non stop to Zegreb city limits which was thoroughly to my liking. 
Checking in to my apartment right in the centre of the city was a breeze thanks to Dorothy at reception who sat with me and went through the town map marking all the recommended things to see..
Checked in, out of my riding gear and I’m off to find the cafe recommended by Dorothy..
Lunch done and it’s time to see some sights..
The stone gate was nearby. This gate was the entrance to mediaeval Gradec town. A great fire in 1731 destroyed every part of the wooden gate except the painting of the Virgin Mary and her child.. People believe the painting posses magical powers and come here to pray and light candles.. Which was happening whilst I was there in the afternoon.
Ban Jelacic square bares the statue of governor Jelacic who led Croation troops into battle with Hungary.. That didn’t end well at all for the Croatians.
At the square a large crowd was building and police turned out in riot gear to control the tension building between the Protesting Serbs and on edge Croatians.. It’s a public holiday here tomorrow celebrating Croatia’s independence and offence was taken by the Serbian population adding fuel to an already burning fire…
Since Yugoslavia dissected into separate regions there have been border wars between these two countries, also Serbians autonomously control one quarter of Croatia and Croatia have vowed to win back there land..watch this space . It ain’t over yet , that’s for sure. 
The ‘Old Town’ is full of history and I only saw a small portion unfortunately.. I just love these Medieval towns preserved inside these cities.. I could walk around them all day.
A late start this morning, in fact one of the latest starts I’ve of had on the whole trip. Probably because I’m really enjoying these last few short days before my big run into Austria. The reason I am forced with a big run into Austria is that it looks like there’s no accommodation, or very little at least on the route I’m taking North through the Triglav National park and the ‘must ride road’the ‘Vrisc pass’ which should see me riding around the 2000 metres mark.. 
I was working my way out of town and pulled over to sort my GPS when another rider stopped to see if I needed help.. A lovely bloke by the name of ‘August’. I said to him I was born in October but I don’t go bragging about it.. He laughed, and I laughed because he actually got my joke..
It turns out August is on his way back to Germany and he has been busking his way around a few countries. Hence the guitar strapped to the back of his bike.In fact he was on his way to the city to busk when he stopped to help me.. 
We chatted for a good 10 minutes and under different circumstances it would have been great to share a meal and some stories…
The border is only a short run out of town so I opt for the motorway into Slovenia where the border crossing goes smoothly and then do some village hopping via scenic back roads following the Krka river for over 30 kms through picturesque little villages. I passed one village where the house was built so part of the river flowed under it.. Amazing. Rejoining the motorway it was only another 20 km into town, which worked out perfectly because 20 minutes after I pulled in, it started to rain..What’s that? I haven’t seen rain since Sofia in Bulgaria.. All checked in and hopefully a fine day tomorrow . 
All going well today I should make it into Austria, it’s a glorious day and I’m ready to hit the road early.
Bike packed breakfast done and moving by 8am.
I’m heading to Austria via the Slovenia high country, in particular the ‘Vrsic pass’.
I immediately head west out of town towards Tolmin which is about 90 kms away before heading north to cross the Julian Alps and the highest pass in Slovenia.. It is classed as a dangerous road as a lapse in concentration wouldn’t end well. 
The climb to 1600 meters is just so spectacular on this lovely day.
There’s a bit of traffic, mainly motorbikes obviously out to take on the ‘Vrsic’ – its 50 hairpin bends and unforgiving drop offs.
The Vrsic was built by Russian POW’S in 1915 and on the Northern side there are cobblestone hairpins that are reminders of those days. An avalanche wiped out a POW camp and buried 300 souls in the making of the pass, which is only open seven months of the year and if you have the time, a beautiful way to cross from Slovenia to Austria..
The climb from the Slovenian side is gradual where as the Austrian side is a more dramatic climb and a long one at that.. 
Just while I was coming down an Audi had blown a transmission coming up and a BMW with steam pouring from under the bonnet.. Just a bit further on..
Crossing the border was strange as I didn’t even have to show my passport and just when you think the best is over, the ride in to my accommodation was beautiful .. More twisting through the countryside with almighty tall bridges between the mountains all the way into Liesing, just south of Lienz.
My B&B accommodation in Mostar has to be right up there with the best . A family run B&B that really takes pride in delivering exceptional service. Breakfast was awesome and the coffee machine really won me over. Leaving Montenegro I really was only after a route to get to the Alps and never really gave Bosnia a lot of thought. At one stage I was going to come up through Croatia, only the heat was excessive – so I opted for higher altitude riding through Bosnia. 
It’s one of the best decisions I’ve made on this trip
It’s a gorgeous country – the people are friendly, accommodation is dirt cheap, the food is sensational, the roads and scenery are amazing and I’ve learnt a little bit about the place. I’ve thoroughly enjoyed my time here.
It’s not a big day today only about 190 km to Banja Luka as I want to get in early and walk the town because I really enjoyed my walk around Mostar yesterday. 
Out of pure luck I struck gold with my route today. It was sensational. I spent most of the day in the mountains, where the temperature was in the mid-20s compared to the 30’s on the coast.
I followed the M17 North out-of-town via more balcony semi-deserted roads and following a river on another glorious day.
No border crossings to deal with today just an accommodation appointment in the afternoon.
I followed the river for about an hour and a noticed further along on my right a kayak slalom course in the Rapids.. and a white water raft full of people hurtling down the river.. Now that’s something I would love to do… Looks great fun.. 
I was making good time and having a ball until I hit the towns of Prozor and Gornji Vukuf Uskoplje where the traffic was painful and it took me 40 minutes to get through this section.
Further along I passed the town of Jajce, where on top of the hill is a 14 th century castle and in the castle grounds lies part of the city. The castle walls are 1300 meters in length and run down the hill dividing the town. It’s quite unusual and you can get a great view from a parking bay off the main road.
Medieval Bosnia was a region made up of several communities that always seemed to be at war and most of the castles were built in this period, until the Ottomans arrived and added their own influence to Jajce. The castle was also the seat of local Kings who have marked the entrance with their own crests.
I’m following the Vrbas river out of town before a lovely ride over Ruina greben at 350 metres into the town of Banja Luka.
My apartment is a little hard to find as the addresses run a little odd and names are sometimes non-existent 
Its essential I take pictures off Booking. com of the accommodation so I can find these places..
I am met by a lovely lady ‘Byona’ who gives me a run down and the key. Right in town with parking and everything I need. It’s nice inside, not bad For $29 .. Yes $29!! ..this is the bargain of my trip so far.. But wait there’s more . I walked down to a lovely cafe that was recommended by Byona, had a lovely dinner and picked up some groceries on the way home all for $15.. Amazing
I spent two days in Kolasin as a last minute change of plan. I’m running ahead of schedule. It’s a great little town and the accommodation is dirt cheap. Today I head for Kotor bay on the Adriatic Coast and as the crow flies it’s not far at all but the route I have chosen should take me most of the day. Little did I know that the scenery would be out of this world and would be the best days riding I’ve done since I left Norway.
The riding to Kolasin two days ago was brilliant. Today was magnificent.
Within five minutes of leaving my accommodation I was riding a magnificent road. The M2 south east follows a gorge where the road cuts into the cliff. Tunnels and bridges are scattered regularly along the route and the scenery is nothing short of spectacular.
I must have stopped 8 or 9 times for happy snaps, thinking the photos just can’t tell what I am seeing here. 
About 70 km along I hit the town of Podgorica and the Big Girl’s telling me that it’s 46°.. She never lies so I found an air-conditioned cafe and parked the Girl in the shade for an hour while I looked at my route.
A couple of coffees later and route sorted I head for the hills to Cetinje. I’m climbing the beautiful mountain roads, the temperature is dropping and everything is going well until I see brake lights in front of me. Everybody is at crawling pace and it turns out there is an accident a couple of kilometres up the road. 
Once past the accident everything opens up again and I turn off at Cetinje up the R1 on a deserted mountain road.
Well – what a magnificent find this turned out to be. The road climbing to over 1,000 metres overlooking the town of Dubovic . Sheer drop-offs on the mountain road make for an interesting approach to how you take the corners and the odd approaching vehicle. I couldn’t believe my eyes when I spotted a coach in the distance struggling to negotiate the hairpin bends. Oh my god what is he doing here.. I caught and followed him for a short while watching as he swung the big behemoth around using 110% of the road until I couldn’t watch anymore. I had to pass before a vehicle came the other way as we would all become like a cork in a bottle. 
The final leg of my route takes me down the R1 through Bukovica on breathtaking balcony roads at over 1,000 metres with views to die for..
I pulled up at one ideal photo opportunity and made a coffee, when I heard someone yahooing.. To my amazement across the gorge right in front of me was a figure of a person racing along on a flying fox. What a great sight to see. So high they could parachute to the valley below if they wanted..
The best is yet to come as I continue towards a magnificent finger road that traverses the mountain descending via 15 hairpin bends and if that doesn’t try and distract you, there’s the magnificent ariel view of Kotor Bay with a luxury liner in dock grabbing my attention at the same time begging for another happy snap moment. I had to pull over and savour the view one last time which is a bonus on the bike as it’s easy to duck in somewhere and still let traffic past. 
Down in Kotor Bay I locate my apartment which is in town and on the water.. Brilliant! park up the bike in the courtyard, throw on some shorts and explore this town.. What a fabulous day.
Kotor has an aura about it. Yes it’s touristy, though relaxed and an ambience that makes you want to be part of the atmosphere.
I need to make tracks as I can feel the heat building and it’s only 8.30am. Getting out of town is a delay with traffic but not as bad as the bottleneck trying to get in and before long I am riding the bay shoreline then climbing again on the M4 via more balcony roads overlooking the bay. Just gorgeous. 
The temperature is dropping as I climb to 1,200 meters and join the M6 for a short run to the Bosnian border.
Checking out of Montenegro was reasonably straightforward after a conversation with border control who weren’t convinced my Australian rego was legitimate. The guy was implying that anyone could print it with a computer and there were no stamps on it.
My reply was “that’s how they come in Australia mate” response was a smart look back at me .. So my reply to his smirk was that “the other 22 border officers didn’t have a problem with it.” With that he handed me the papers and waved me through. 
Anyway … I was trying to get out of the country – not into it …
Passing through the Bosnian border down the road was easy and I was on my way in no time.
The scenery is still catching my attention and descending into Trebinje was a highlight from over 1,000 meters.
The country is a bit of a basket case when it comes to its borders and what’s where and where’s what. Basically there are three regions – Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Srpska Republic and Brcko district. Also two currencies are accepted and sometimes one or the other or both. The Euro and the Bosnian Mark. 
It’s s beautiful ride from Trebinje to Ljubinje and a great road surface through the mountains, not so for my final leg to Mostar.
I arrived a bit later than I expected, though still plenty of time to explore the ‘old town’ with its unusual foot bridges, markets and lanes full of cafés . There are still a lot of the original buildings bearing the scars of the Bosnian war with concrete walls riddled with plain to see bullet holes.
The prices here for food are ridiculously cheap. I had a lovely generous Bosnian meat and salad dish and a beer for $8.50 AUD.. My apartment is in town, has air conditioning, is very modern and cost me $40 Aud.. This is the best value of my trip so far..
I need to get moving early this morning as my nights accommodation is 350 km away and I have two border crossings and a lot of winding roads to get there. I’ve got the bike packed and am sitting down for breakfast at 7:30am. I’m on the road by 8.00am heading South-West to Prishtina in morning traffic “oh what fun this is”. 
I’m only about 50 km from the Kosovo border. Looking at the mountains in front of me thinking “it won’t be long and I’ll be riding up those”
It’s a glorious day and the there’s a massive lineup at the border as the border patrol are checking every car and most people were out of their cars talking to each other. It wasn’t long before I was waved through to the front of the line by the queue, maybe because I was a tourist – I don’t know – but I was thanking them all on my way to the front.
It was great to see smiling people even the border patrol guys were fantastic and in a few minutes I was winding my way towards Prishtina. 
Prishtina is a huge city and it was my chance to grab a coffee and top up the Big Girl, so I pulled into a local fuel station.
I soon started a conversation with two local guys who were sitting drinking coffee and who asked to join them. They insisted on buying me a coffee and we chatted about our countries amongst many other things.
Naip the older gentleman sitting next to me was a lovely guy whose English was about as good as my Kosovo Albanian and he sent me some pictures of him and his family. (they are very gracious and proud people). 
Turns out Naip is top brass in The Kosovo Police.. You just don’t know who you’re going to meet on a trip like this..
Obviously ethnic tensions that eventually blew out to war between Kosovo Albanians and the Serb population as well as Yugoslavia chiming in set the country back and Serbia still refuses to acknowledge Kosovo as a state. It may be poor by European standards but it more than makes up for it with some of the nicest people you could hope to meet. I’ll take a basic lifestyle and nice people any day.. 
The ten minute break turned into an hour. “Sorry guys, I really need to keep moving” and I set off out of the Capital city towards the Montenegro border.
In a straight line it’s only about 13 km to the border but following the road it’s about 50 km and what a great 50 km it was, climbing to the 1,200 metre border gate was magnificent on semi-deserted mountain roads and once there I joined a small queue and more border police in a happy mood.
I’ve still got a bit of distance to cover to get to my accommodation in Kolasin and the road that’s about to take me there is spectacular. Beautiful in every way, semi-deserted, a great surface, climbing to a height of over 1700 metres, snaking over and through the mountains. On a glorious day with spectacular views in every direction I was forced to stop on many occasions and pull out my camera.. 
On one of these occasions, I was taking a photo and a guy came out of a property and waved me over. “Coffee.. You like coffee?”.
So here I am in the mountains of Montenegro drinking coffee with a home made shnapps chaser (whoa) with Egor and his family on his terrace looking out over the mountain peaks.. I’ve met some lovely, lovely people today.
I eventually get to my accommodation in Kolasin late but still at a respectable time, check in and head to a local restaurant where I enjoy a local meal and reflect on a superb day.. The roads were magnificent, but the day was made by the people I met along the way..
It looks like being another day of mid 30° weather. It’s a 200 km run into Sofia so I opt for faster flowing roads again – ducking and weaving on and off the motorway. The scenery isn’t anything special except for the mountain range to my West, which looking at my GPS is what I will be crossing on my way to Serbia in a day or two, but for now my priority is to make Sofia and have the Big Girl serviced tomorrow. 
Sandra located a fantastic apartment for me right in the heart of town with gated underground parking, top floor unit with balcony and everything I need, not bad for $60 a night.
A sleep-in this morning because it’s only a 15 minute run to the Edi Moto KTM centre where I arrive to find everything I requested earlier waiting for me. Brilliant – an organised business I like that..
Whilst the service guys swung into action, Rossica made me a coffee and I sat and chatted to the owner Alexander for a while. Alexander had just got back from Turkey on his own adventure with his mates. 
We swapped stories and talked bikes for a while until I was given the thumbs up that my bike was ready.. Great and no mucking about either – 2 hours tops and she was all good to go.
All washed and cleaned yesterday and new tyres, brakes (yet again) and fresh oil should see me well into the Alps. First though is my exploring Kosovo, Montenegro, Albania and Slovenia, which I head towards tomorrow.
I leave town this morning in better conditions than when I arrived, a lot cooler and in the mid-20’s compared to the mid 30’s. 
A trick I’ve learnt is to not fill up the bike when I arrive in town – instead I fill up with the currency I have in my pocket before crossing the border. Today it was “yes $16.50 please” (service is at the pump).. The looks I get are priceless.. I know I’m a cheap arse.. But hey $10 here $15 there – it all adds up.
It was about a 60 km run to the border and the barren landscape is still shadowing me though the mountains in the distance look promising.
Sure enough, just before the border the roads narrow and everything is much greener. The Serbian border crossing was easy and it was smiles all round as it was deserted and everyone was in a chatty mood.. Mmmm that’s a nice change. 
North of Bosilegrad the riding is brilliant and right up my alley.. Open sweeping bends, some tighter ones thrown in to keep things interesting, no traffic and lush countryside.
Turning north on the 231 around Vlasina lake and west on the 232 at Crna Trava was the highlight of the day. I’d go as far to say some of the best riding so far.. There’s NO ONE out here.. You have these glorious surfaced roads through fantastic countryside all to yourself..
Some of the villages I passed through you can see the people are doing it tough.
There’s no way that these buildings can be watertight and they are way beyond repair. I feel like an alien as I pass through the villages. The looks I get seem to range from ‘what is that ?’ to ‘Oh my god – grab your children and run’.. It’s really weird – I know I’m on the roads not taken by tourists and sometimes the Gps doesn’t even know where it is but I was just taken aback somewhat..
Speaking of the Gps. It was all over the shop today, especially when I arrived in the town of Leskovac looking for my accommodation. It just didn’t want to cooperate.
A young guy pulled up with his girlfriend and asked if I was okay. “Just looking for my accommodation mate – I’m ok thanks” Turns out the young man knew where I needed to go “Follow me” he said … So off we go through laneways and a few streets – bang on we are there..What a top young bloke. He asked for a picture with the Big Girl – he was a new rider himself so could appreciate my journey somewhat..
Leskovac is like many large towns here, a case of old meets new. You can ride down the street and feel like you’re back in time, with roadside stalls and markets then turn a corner and be confronted with modern buildings as good as anywhere..it sort of goes along with the big contrast in wealth and hardship. You might pass two BMW’s, an Audi then two horse and carts with the whole family on board sitting on straw bales .. Strange …. Now to check in. A couple of beers and a good steak are on the menu for me tonight.
I’m gearing up for a warm one today, the temperature is going to be in the 30’s, so I’m taking the fast flowing roads to Turkey to keep the air moving. I’m going to head straight South through Strandzha Nature Park and Sredoka nature reserve and call it a day halfway to Gallipoli.
I was originally heading for Istanbul but there’s no reason now as the KTM dealer there can’t deliver the tyres that I want or any tyres for that matter and I don’t see the point in battling a massive city with 20 million other people – yes, that’s the population .. and excessive heat, for no particular reason.
I’ve now sourced tyres back in Bulgaria on my way out of Turkey, so I can take my time and look around Gallipoli and the battlefields.
I’m not really one for organised tours but I’ve booked one for Gallipoli – a local company that has a full day tour of the battlefields and I think with local knowledge I’ll get a lot out of it. More than I could possibly find out in days roaming the area.. I remember the tour I took in Estonia was brilliant so I hope this will be a winner as well.
On my way out of Bulgaria I passed small village and notice something peculiar about a house on the outskirts of town.
The house was derelict and I noticed animals inside.. ‘Did I just see what I think I saw?’. So I turned around to have a look.
I thought it was quite amusing to find eight sheep and three horses in this house, with one of the sidewalls knocked out – somebody was obviously using it as a stable.
Everything was going well until I hit the Turkish border and things went downhill from there.
I passed through the first two checks okay, then I got to passport control. “Visa please”. Visa????.. I was unaware I needed a Visa for Turkey.. So off I go 50 meters to buy my Visa.. “50 Euro and they don’t take credit cards. Lucky I had Euro on me, if I hadn’t it would have been a 40 minute ride back to the nearest town to the auto-teller.
Okay, off I go to the exit “No sir, your passport isn’t complete “. Turn around and go right back to the where I started from.
Okay – registration checked back to the exit gate. “No – you need a custom stamp”. Well I lost it and blew up..on my third attempt at crossing the border “what’s going on here, I’ve had enough of this” ( I’ve censored my exact words) they shouldn’t of let me get this far if my paperwork was incorrect.. “you need to sort this mate”.
It’s 35 deg and I’m pissed off .. Pardon me .. Back to customs and the supervisor just stamped it and that was it.. At that time a tray of tea was delivered and the supervisor handed me a cup as a peace offering.. So here I am drinking tea with the Customs guys, and Police at the end of the debacle.
Back at the exit gate the original officer had been replaced and the new guy was asking about our dance.. “Our what?” I asked, puzzled “You know – the Haka” he replied… Eventually after a lot of head scratching I worked out he thought I was from New Zealand” . So I did my best Haka impression and bid farewell.. Thank god that was over..
Arriving in Corlu mid-afternoon in 35 degree heat I opted for cranking up the air conditioning in my motel and having a quick forty winks before heading out for some local cuisine.. It’s still great value on this side of the world where you can eat a nice meal for around $10.. You gotta like that..
Up early this morning for my buffet breakfast and hit the road before the heat sets in. ” yes it’s going to be another one in the mid 30’s” . I’ve got two routes up my sleeve – a fast and a slower route that separate and go different directions 100 kms away.. I’ll make up my mind when I get to that point depending on the heat..
It’s a lovely ride following the coast , somewhat pleasant and very scenic and lovely surfaced roads complete the picture.
From what I’ve seen of Turkey so far, my preconceived perception is totally wrong.. The people are lovely, super friendly and polite, the areas I’ve seen are clean and tidy, oodles of brilliant cheap cafes with really nice food that’s for sure. I went to a shopping centre today to get some supplies. Now the shopping centres are great. They have their own cuisine and plenty of it. The staff can’t do enough for you as they set your table, explain the menu and fuss over you like they really appreciate your business..
One thing that stood out was that at every entrance you have to walk through a scanner like at the airport. I asked security if this is common and the reply was yes in every shopping centre..
This must be costing the country millions.. All since the terrorist attacks here..
Speaking of security.. I asked security where do I get a taxi and honestly he had his phone out in a second and said “you wait out there” as he pointed to the front doors “one will be here in a minute for you.. And thank you for shopping here.. How good is that?
Funny that the two countries in Europe I had reservations about have been the friendliest. France and Turkey.. Go figure..
My route was the quickest route as the temperature was climbing and I still had a ferry to catch from Eceabat to Canakkale. Speaking of which my timing was perfect as I wound the Big Girl up on the run to the ferry following the semi-deserted road in and just caught the ferry with one car space left and seconds from departing.. One red light and I’d have missed it.
Canakkale is much bigger than I pictured it, it’s a bustling city and my accommodation was on the far side of town. So straight up I was thrown into the traffic chaos. Thank god I had my friend – the little blue arrow – in front of me, guiding me slowly away from this bedlam. Fifteen minutes later I was checking in after a negotiation on my requirements on the Big Girls security – her accommodation takes priority over mine and if she’s not safe and happy, I’m not.
Part of my accommodation deal is breakfast included, which in this case is held on the terrace, top floor overlooking the Dardanelles which ironically is why I’m here.
The Dardanelles are a narrow shipping channel, and were the reason for the Gallipoli campaign.
The Ottoman empire closed allied shipping in the Dardanelles in 1914 and even though they were an unaligned power, the German military advisers in the area seemed to take it upon themselves to make sure it was closed. This was now open to raiding Russian assets in the Black Sea by the Germans and putting the Russian fleet out of commission..
Russia declared war and Britain followed suit. Allied forces were to land on the beaches and capture fortified artillery strongholds protecting the Dardanelles. Once captured allied battleships could reclaim the area.. This was Australia and New Zealand’s role in the attack.
After breakfast I caught a taxi into town and located the office where the Gallipoli tour was to start. Our group consisted of eight Australians and Kiwis all keen to learn more and little did we know we had a tour guide that was incredible.
Charlie was his Australianised name and what everyone knew him as, though of Turkish origin.
We set off to our first site which is the Museum for a run down on why this all took place, then our next site of the landings at ANZAC Cove..
A 600 metre long pebble beach that wasn’t the designated landing area. Brighton beach to the south was the target.. Tides and total darkness drifted the Anzacs to the North.
There is also a beach cemetery here where diggers found in the area are buried.
Lone Pine is the biggest Memorial cemetery where 4,900 graves are located and where I had the honour of signing the register and few special words were written as well .
Lone Pine got its name by a digger who sent a pine seed back home and his family planted it.. The tree grew and germinated and the seed was replanted back at the memorial and has grown into a ‘lone pine’ tree.
We visited battle fields, with trenches still easily visible, more graves , more battlefields , more graves – all the time Charlie right on the ball with his knowledge, precise right down to the exact time of day of the attacks.
There were many stories told. One in particular of a digger who witnessed an act that astonished everyone. During a fierce battle an Australian officer lay wounded between the trenches. A Turkish soldier waved a white flag and got out of his trench picked up the officer and carried him to the Australian trench. The digger who witnessed this was later to become Governor General Lord Casey.
Gallipoli was known as the last Gentleman’s War
Our tour group consolidated to a family of sorts as we all felt deeply about our countrymen and the nightmare they endured.
I am so glad I made this journey as it is nowhere near any great roads or other points of interest, just days of heat getting here and to my next point. It all paled into insignificance after visiting Gallipoli.
My goal now is to get to Sofia in Bulgaria in two days time for new tyres, an oil change and new brakes. My last minute route change is to take me through Greece into Bulgaria on a big days ride, then a short run into Sofia on Wednesday which will give me time to make the Big Girl look a bit more respectable for the service guys..
Three countries and two border crossings with a wrong turn that saw me face-to-face with the Turkish military branding automatic weapons and I’ve arrived in Haskovo .
The ride through Greece was superb and the scenery following the Komotini Nymfaia Highway across the border was spectacular. The Temperature dropped from 34 to 26 degrees with the rise in altitude to complement the magnificent landscape.. A real surprise package..
After a big day yesterday it was brilliant to arrive at a lodge that cooked me a lovely dinner which I was so appreciative of and a brilliant breakfast the next morning .. Thank you Cristian and Belegania villa.. Fantastic. Today I head north and ride supposedly one of the greatest roads in the world the Transfagarasan highway. 
The Transfagarasan starts straight out of Pitesti on road DN 7c, and winds its way north just east of Sibiu.
My first stop is Poenari castle (Dracula’s castle) which is 60 kms from Pitesti . Arriving at the castle I got talking to two Slovakian riders who could talk reasonably good English, nice guys and it was nice to just talk about anything and everything for a few minutes.. Well a good half an hour actually
..
The boys were off to do the Transfagarasan while I opted to climb the 1,500 steps to the top of Dracula’s castle, silly me..
The actual name is Poenari castle and it was built in the 13th century by the ‘Black King’. It changed hands a few times since and was left to ruins.. In the 15th Century Vlad ‘the impaler’ saw the defence potential of the castle and restored it. Vlad was a sadistic type of person who impaled some of the local boyers who were plotting against him, to deter future attempts by others .. Vlad the impaler was considered to be the character described as Dracula in Bram Stockers books..
I paid my 5 lei and climbed to the top armed with nothing more than a bottle of water .. I think I was the only one that climbed to the top in motorcycle gear that day..
It was well worth a look even if it was just for the view.. For me it was the logistics of building this castle with 860 metre near vertical drops on all sides..
Anyway I still had the Transfagarasan to ride and it’s 12.30pm .
Heading north up the Transfagarasan there’s a lot of roadworks, rough roads and I am thinking to myself this is really nothing to write home about, although I did know at some point the road would open up into a magnificent feat of engineering madness. 
Approaching from the south you can see the road snaking up the mountain in front of you, gradual at first then more as you climb. There are a few guard rails on the corners and small retaining walls but there are a lot of places where there are just no barriers at all.
There are also quite a number of pullover points where you can stop and look down on the road beneath you . I will admit it’s very impressive.
There is quite a bit of traffic around, more than what I thought there would be for a midweek ride so a lot of overtaking was involved in the climb to the top. Looking back from the top you can’t help but think that it must be a monumental task maintaining this road. One landslide anywhere and the whole road is shut. 
The South side joins the North side through a 500 m long tunnel and coming out of this tunnel to the North side was like entering into a different world. I left clear weather on the south side and I couldn’t see 50 m in front of me on the North side because of mountain mist.
It did clear but then came back again and did this several times, so you had to be quick with the camera. Mind you I was at the highest point of 2,042 m and as I descended it was quite clear down below. 
The road did look spectacular and this is the road ‘Top Gear’ tested Supercars on the North side. Jeremy Clarkdons comment was “This is the best road in the world”.
Well it may be for cars but it definitely isn’t for bikes. The road surface is deeply grooved for added traction in winter conditions which plays havoc with the steering of the bike. The South side isn’t grooved and is a much better ride, although having said that the Transalpina I rode yesterday was a far superior road with hardly any traffic. 
Onward towards my destination and the lovely little village of Bran is where I will be staying tonight.
I just pulled into the parking lot and was greeted by the owners who immediately offered me some coffee and cake.. I liked his village already. The accommodation is lovely and I could quite easily spend a few days here but I have to keep moving. It was just so nice to go to sleep with the sound of the river flowing over the rocks right outside my bedroom window. 
The next day and I keep heading South – I might get to cross the ‘Danube’ into Bulgaria.
My route was to take me further North to Brasov, then back South, and I really couldn’t see the point in going North then South, so I re-routed
Well wasn’t that a good call. It was a fantastic road out of town, climbing through forestry and passing villages where people were out the front of their homes selling their own culinary products 
I called into a lookout to take some photos of the lovely little town of Campulung where I met this elderly lady selling jams.
Well, what a character.. she couldn’t talk English and I couldn’t talk Romanian but that didn’t stop us from trying . I think we got there in the end and it was a barrel of laughs.
The day was warming up and It wasn’t long before I had all my vents open, yep a great day ..
click on this picture to view video footage!
I was about to turn left down road DN72A when the Big Girl started talking to me. Low tyre pressure was winking at me on the dash, so I glanced to observe the reading hmmm yep rear tyre’s going down..
Lucky this happened before I turned down the side road because if I can’t fix it I’ll need to be hauled out of here. As it was, it was only a nail in the rear tyre.. Well only one thing for it ‘coffee time’. So I poured a brew and proceeded to unpack my tyre repair kit. This reminds me I need to sort some new tyres which might sound easy but over here it’s not. I’ve been emailing bike shops in Turkey and I’ve given up. Wouldn’t you think KTM Istanbul would have tyres or could get some to fit of my bike.. Naaah it’s like all too hard.. I said to them “you sell these bikes what do you do when the people want new tyres?”. The replies was “they are hard to get”.. Sorry I don’t buy it, something is not right here. 
So I rang KTM in Sofia Bulgaria and at least I got a helpful girl who is sourcing tyres for me now.
Tyre fixed and I’m back on the road heading for Bulgaria. Passing through loads of little villages where horse and cart out number motor vehicles is my type of route and I did this all the way to the Bulgarian border. I crossed the Danube at about 4 o’clock and I’m just staying over the border south of Ruse in the village of Koshov.. Tomorrow I will head for the Black Sea on my way to Turkey.
It looks like another great day and straight up I am greeted at the front of my apartment by a lovely chap and his donkey pulling his load of grass up the hill.. What a great start to the day!
My goal is to make the Bulgarian coast, in fact make it to the Black Sea. From there I will make my way to Istanbul, swing around The Sea of Marmara and come into Gallipoli the back way.
It’s 280 kms to my accommodation in Burgas on the coast and it’s warming up already. So all vents open before I head off.
It’s not spectacular riding today, more a ‘get-on-with-it and make some miles’ kind of day and I’m not too bothered about it as I can sit back and take in the neighbourhood so to speak. It’s all about getting to my next point of interest ‘Gallipoli’ by the best route I can come up with.
There were quite a few villages I passed through and one I had lunch in called Antoc, where I had a lovely meal and coffee for the princely sum of $8.00..
I arrived in Burgas early afternoon, which is a rare event but welcome. Checked in and kicked back – on the balcony taking in the views of The Black Sea
I really don’t think I will see anymore great mountain roads until I make Montenegro in a week or so and the Big Girl should hopefully have some new tyres by then. Forget about what brand of tyre you want. You take what you can get in these parts!
After four days R&R in the town of Sibiu it’s time to hit the road again. The weather has cleared, it’s a fine looking day and the Big Girl’s ready to go after a last minute brake change yesterday. I was checking the tyres and glanced at the rear brakes and “Yep – they’re gone again”. Lucky I had a spare set on me so I ripped the back wheel out, fitted them and she was good to go. 
Today I head West to one of the roads on my bucket list, The Transalpina highway.
Road DN 67c ‘Transalpina’stretches from Sebes in the north to Novaci in the South and little did I know that I was about to ride one of the best biking roads I have ever ridden – so far that is. The Transfagarasan I ride tomorrow might well top it from what I’ve heard.
The commute to the Transalpina wasn’t a dull ride either. I must have passed four or five horse drawn carts, passed through countless almost medieval villages and traversed several roads littered with rocks from landslides – just to keep me on my toes. The scenery wasn’t half bad either..
Once I started the Transalpina and was riding South I thought ‘this is a good ride’, not fantastic but nevertheless a good ride.. I was about to cross the dam wall of Lacul Oasa where local traders had set up food stalls on the dam wall. The smell of the local cooking forced me to bring the Big Girl to a stop and try some local delicacies.
I won’t even try to pronounce what I had but it was damn tasty all rolled, prepared and cooked in front of me. 
After crossing the dam wall I travelled about 20 km further south and what was starting to unfold in front of me was pure bliss.
The tree line had all but disapppeared and in its place lay a majestic road snaking its way up, around and over the 2,000 meter high peaks.
Plateauing (is that a word?!) out at the top giving yourself more than enough time to take in the gorgeous views, you also pass by more market traders taking full advantage of this very popular tourist road. When I say popular, it’s one of the least congested roads I have ridden over here.. 
Descending south towards Navaci, I’m testing the Big Girl’s brakes all the way to the bottom on beautiful sweeping bends and mountain peaks trying their best to distract me
Turning east towards Pitesti the road is far less spectacular – zig zagging via country farm roads through more economically challenged villages and heavier traffic the closer I get.
I was so close to my B&B but just couldn’t get there via the back roads as they had deteriorated to the point that if I had continued I would have been in a cornfield. So a 20 minute detour was thrown in late just to stretch out a long enough day as it was..
A great day full of surprises.. That’s for sure..
Baile Felix isn’t a picturesque town by any means, but it has everything I need and the accommodation is fantastic value. The B&B I stayed at was brand-new and very well appointed – quite good value for $60. On the way into town I could have had my choice of numerous B&Bs as there were people standing out in the streets with placards advertising their B&B (Pension) for rent. If I was caught out I would probably opt for one of these B&Bs but under normal circumstances I like to research my B&B, as bike security is number one priority. 
It’s another cracker of a day outside and I am on the road by 8.30am heading south on road DN 76 towards Sibiu.
It wasn’t long before I encounter the first lot of road works, then another and another and another. It has taken me an hour and a half to cover 60 km. I would have searched for another route but my turn off was 60 km from my destination so I suffered it and the mad Romanian drivers until I reached my turn off.
Honestly, I could have made an episode of the World’s Worst Drivers and I have some helmet cam footage of these insane manoeuvres.. Overtaking around verges, on the wrong side. My personal ‘favourite’is the practice of drivers just pulling out in front of you like you’re in their way. Honestly, it’s unbelievable.. Red lights mean bugger all and if you think that because you’ve got the green light it’s safe to proceed, you might want to have a look around before you do.. 
Just after the town of Stei I make my turn on road DN 75 thank God.. and leave the chaos behind me, climbing through the best set of twisty bends that just go on and on eventually leading to the ski village of Sat De Vacanta Vartop where there is a building that has a remarkable resemblance to our Opera house in Sydney. It’s a beautiful looking new lodge that will probably be servicing the ski fraternity this coming season.
Did I mention it was a great day? Well, it is and I’m enjoying every minute of it.
I passed a BMW GS rider earlier as he was having a break and he’s caught me up as I’m taking photos so we had fun tailing each other from the town of Avramesti following the river for, must have been 40kms until I had to leave him on my turn down road DN74a to the town of Abrud, which leads me onto the DN 74 and back into lovely winding country roads. 
On these roads you never know what will pop up.. My camera was working overtime. There were children driving horse drawn carts, road side workers clearing long grass with scythes. A lovely elderly lady with her flock of sheep on the roadside, a couple of gentlemen driving a cart pulled by two gorgeous looking horses with a load of greenery, in no particular hurry to be anywhere..
On the inner fringe of Sibiu I passed the Red Bull Romaniacs compound. For those that don’t know, the Romaniacs are exactly that – ‘maniacs’ on two wheels.. It goes beyond motorcycle off-road endurance, it borders on the impossible.. They are watched world wide and I was lucky enough to be invited into their compound when they saw the loaded up filthy Big Girl barking at their gate.. 
A few guys came and offered me a drink and some food as well as telling me about their day and asking about my trip.. On more than one occasion I heard the word ‘respect’ directed towards me.. Now I’m no idiot and these guys are legends in their sport. Believe me, the respect is from me to them – end of story..
I left after an hour feeling so lucky to have met some of them Oh and with my can of Red Bull.. I wish I could get that on the plane back home.. A can of Red Bull given to me by the Red Bull Romaniacs..that would be going straight to the pool room..
I lucked out with my accommodation which is superb and right in town with gated security for the Big Girl.. Thanks Sandra – it’s Brilliant..
I’m in Sibiu for a few days to look around and get off the bike for a rest .. The weather forecast is ordinary for a few days then it looks very good after that, so that’s when I will take off again.. I will continue my Blog then.. In the meantime, for those following and not on my Facebook page, here is the link at the bottom of the photos to my latest video Norway .. I hope you enjoy it..
My first stop today is the town of Kraków 70 km East of Oswiecim. My host at the apartment complex sent me packing with a healthy plate of scrambled eggs, toast and brewed coffee. “yep – that’ll see me through just fine”. 
There’s a bit of light rain about as well so I finish packing the bike between showers and set off on back roads towards Kraków.
There’s still heavy traffic about on these back roads and the light rain still persisting, I just couldn’t be bothered pulling over and putting my wets on so I just kept riding looking at the clearing skies ahead thinking ‘yeah it’ll be okay – it’ll stop soon.’
Ten minutes later I conceded and pulled into a bus shelter to put on my wets.
Off I go again “What the … ” A ferry????? I don’t remember a ferry on my route, especially this barely sea worthy, listing to the left, raft with a motor..
When I got closer it wasn’t looking any better and the old Polish pilot looked like safety wasn’t high on his list.. About then I glanced at what was driving this home made pontoon.. There was an electrical lead hanging from a pole connected to a motor sounding like it needed a major heart transplant, then to a pulley carrying a cable across the river..I lent over and said to the Big Girl – “can you swim?”…
Four vehicles and the ‘ferry’ was full, coughing into life we set off.. Glancing over to the captain – who smiled at me with his cigarette bouncing around on his bottom lip – I silently crossed my fingers. Miraculously we made the opposite bank and we’re off again.
My reason for visiting Kraków is that this is where you will find Oscar Shindlers factory. Yes – it is still here.
It is a museum now full of information relating to the plight of the Jewish community of Kraków under Rule of The Third Reich.
There is a little on Oscar Schlindler and most of you would have heard of the book and seen the movie ‘Schlindler’s list’.
Schlindler was a spy, a war profiteer and a member of the Nazi party, an unlikely allie to the Jews.. But it was these traits he had that saved more than 1,200 Jews from the gas chamber.
His factory was profitable to the extent that he was able to bribe the SS with goods only available on the black market and spent millions of dollars, everything he had – staying true to his workers.. Keeping them alive was his goal – which he did and today there are over 7,000 descendants of the Jews he saved.. He died penniless..though l would most certainly say content and without regret.
Some of the factory is as it was which element I looked forward to the most. Amazing in a modern bustling city that here I am in Schlindler’s factory.. I feel privileged to be here..
Eventually I dragged myself away as I needed to be 100 kms south and the weather was turning against me.. I once again had to abandon the Twisty B roads as the rain was getting heavier and I just don’t trust these Polish drivers who have some strange overtaking moves.. On many occasions I have had to adjust my speed for oncoming overtaking drivers who have a serious judgment problem.. Yep I feel more relaxed on the motorways in the wet.
The rain cleared about 10 minutes out of Zakopane which is my stopover for the night, a really lovely town on the Polish side of The Slovakian Tatras (A mountain range that is synonymous with spectacular views and majestic road riding) which I hope to get a dry run at tomorrow.
A quick weather check this morning and I need to get moving. There’s dark clouds above and rain is coming. The upside is where I’m going is looking pretty good. From Zakopane to the Slovakian border is only 20 kms and from there I take route 66 over the Tatras.
The Tatras are Slovakias Alps and as I approached they looked spectacular and winding through the mountains on these roads is a riders dream, especially with clearing skies the further South I head.
The traffic is getting lighter and the tourist coaches are not on my route .. “Brilliant”.. As overtaking lanes are non existent..
Looking back to where I’d been in the town of Poprad you have a gorgeous view of the Tatras .. From here they disappear as I head further south through Slovak Paradise National Park, where you pass through small villages and mostly see hikers and mountain bike riders this time of year..
Just north of the Hungarian border the roads flatten out and I look down at the Big Girl’s temp gauge and she’s telling me that its 34 1/2°…. For only the second time on this trip I’ve got all vents open on my jacket.. ooooh what’s this ahead.. The Hungarian border”. I stop to take the customary happy snap and an adventure bike goes past me in the opposite direction, turns around and comes back to see if I’m okay.. ” Is every thing alright” are these very clear English words with a German accent.. ” Yes mate , just getting a border photo..
Fast forward at least 30 minutes and we are still chatting about our adventures..
Matthias is returning to Germany from a very similar route to me nut in the opposite direction.. Some great pointers are thrown my way, by this really nice guy and It was a pleasure to meet him.. Ok back on the road and get some air circulating .. It’s damn hot.. 70 kms to go and I reach my BnB..in the very nice little town of Eger..One quick stop at the shopping centre as I need a new screen saver for my phone and some currency as my BnB only accepts cash..
The girls in the phone shop are putting on my screen and I’m off to the bankomatt (auto teller) where I am just looking at this screen that could have been in Egyption and it wouldn’t have been any clearer.. ok I can sort this.. I will press that amount , looks about right.. A few seconds later I was a millionaire.. “you idiot” what you going to do with all this.. Your only here until tomorrow.. I’ll sort it later.. Anyway off to my BnB.. Around the corner where my host is the most gracious friendly lady & the accommodation is top notch.
Eight o’clock breakfast and I’m in no rush as it’s raining and it’s been pouring down all night. I can communicate somewhat with my host and between us we sort out where there’s a currency exchange in town. So off I go and swap my Forint for Euro.. In the meantime the rain had stopped and within 20 minutes I was riding out of my B&B heading east towards Romania..
Ok – there’s no points of interest today and the roads aren’t anything to write home about so I make the most of this milder lovely day by trying to observe more in the villages and the people that live there..
Hungary isn’t a wealthy place lets get that clear.. a lot of the villages are in disrepair and the main mode of transport is bicycles. Are the people any less happy.. I don’t think so..
I eventually see the Romanian border not by signs, but by at least a Kilometre long line of trucks waiting to cross.. The light vehicle queue is much shorter, though no easier as obviously an Aussie bike needed to be scrutinised all over as I posed a high risk to national security.. to be fair it’s their country and I am entering so take it or leave it.. I’ve had a pretty blessed run with border crossings over the last few days so I really can’t complain., Crossing the border and entering Romania the truck queue on the other side is at least a kilometre long as well.. Those guys will be there for hours…
My accommodation is only 15 km over the border 2 or 3 km south of Oradea in the town of Baile Felix which should put me within days ride of Sibiu and what’s regarded by many as the best riding road in the world. “The Transfagarasan”
It’s a great looking morning and I’m happy about that because today I’m going to be doing a fair bit of high country riding which will see me cross the Czech / Polish border at least three times. I cross back into Poland 3 kilometres down the road and head back towards Wroclaw before turning East down road 388 towards the Southern Polish ski fields.
The Sunday traffic is low and the roads are starting to inspire me as they wind their way through the villages leading me to open undulating farmland with the upcoming ski fields as a backdrop in the distance.
I pass through the village of Bystrzyca Klodska and start to climb to the first ski field of Sienna and then Boleslawo.. Absolutely glorious riding and a beautiful road surface.. Just after Boleslawo there is a series of brilliant switchback hairpins that cross the border back into the Czech Republic.. And now it’s the Czech’s turn to show off some great roads as I pass through Stare Mesto, Jesenik and the ski field of Zlate Hory .. 
These ski fields may be a winter wonderland but for bike riders they are a summer sensation.
I have no points of interest to visit today and used the day and this route do with as I like. I could extend it or cut it short if time was getting away on me.
I stuck with my route, crossed back into Poland and continued East to Kuznia Raciborska and finally arrived at my apartment in Oswiecim. 
Oswiecim is where you will find Aushwitz. Tomorrow I will be visiting the site and really don’t know what to expect.
Well, the sun gods are smiling on me again today, in fact it’s going to be quite warm for my visit to Auschwitz.
First of all it is advisable to book a pass into Auschwitz. It is free entry although it will cost you $45 local currency if you want the guided tour which I thoroughly recommend.
I didn’t book in advance because I didn’t know when I would be arriving in Oswiecim and took a risk of not gaining entry and all, or so I thought. The website is a good website but really it’s not up-to-date as it said there were no English speaking guided tours today.
The website also says if you turn up early you will gain entry although you may have to wait.
With that information I arrived 35 minutes before opening and was first in line at the booking office. I found out there were three English speaking guided tours today and vacancies in all of them so I booked the first one at 9:30am.
It’s no special day – just a Monday and the coaches started rolling in. It is a very busy place though it is so well organised that it runs pretty smoothly.
There were about twenty people in our guided tour group and the guide was a local Polish lady who lived not far from the camp.
There are two camps . Aushwitz 1 & Aushwitz 2 ‘Birkenau’. Aushwitz 1 is the oldest and was a concentration camp in 1941. In 1942 it became an Extermination camp.
Ironically, the words above the main gate say ‘Arbeit Macht Freight’. Translated it means ‘Work sets you free’ .. Nobody was ever set free from Auschwitz.
The Jews were targeted the most because Hitler blamed them for Germany’s loss in World War I and thought they were plotting against the Germans. Poland had the biggest Jewish communities in Europe so hence the concentration camps were in Poland, though there were prisoners from twenty-four other countries.
The tour is shocking. It’s graphic and is very disturbing for a lot of people – myself included. The truth is when people first arrived at Aushwitz they were put into one of two groups – extermination or work. If you are put into work, it only prolonged your life marginally where only 10% of people survived.
We were led through all the blocks and shown in graphic detail what actually took place here.
The mistreatment, the hangings, the beatings, the confined quarters the disease, the freezing conditions the SS brutality, the personal belongings of people still there today in the execution yards. The execution yards are different to the gas chambers as they were used for punishment for offences committed, which could be for as little as working too slowly.
After two hours at Auschwitz 1 we caught the shuttle bus to Auschwitz11 Birkenau, which is only 3 km down the road.
Birkenau was constructed after Heinrich Himmler visited Aushwitz 1 and declared they needed a bigger camp.
Birkenau is massive and sits on over 170 ha. It had its own railway line into the camp where mainly Jews were brought from all over Europe, basically to be exterminated. Once off the train you’re put into one of two groups once again – the group on the right to be exterminated you’re unfit for work …. the group on the left … you went to work.
I had a pit in my stomach as I walked the condemned route from the train to the gas chambes just as thousands upon thousands had … men women and children – it didn’t matter. I don’t know but maybe this would have been the better line to be in because life in the camps would have been hell.
So we toured the gas chambers, incineration ovens, sleeping quarters, and wash houses in Birkenau which finished our day.
Most of the buildings of Aushwitz and Birkenau are intact .. it’s only the incineration ovens and some of the wooden dorms that were burnt by fleeing SS officers trying to cover up their atrocities from the approaching Russians.
I’ve seen a fair bit over the last seven weeks but I would definitely say that if you’re ever in or around this part of the world you must visit Aushwitz.. It will move you like you’ve never been moved before and probably never want to be again. In my picture here the face of the lady leaving the execution yard in our tour group sums up the day and how everybody felt … have a look at her face. Nothing more to say…
A sleep-in this morning and doesn’t it feel good – one of the benefits for doing big kilometres yesterday and also being able to enjoy a nice breakfast. My first stop is the town of Zagan which is only forty minutes down the road.
On the outskirts of Zagan is a forest, which is where you will find the remains of Stalug Luft 3.
Stalug luft 3 is the POW camp for allied officers who conjured an elaborate escape which took place on March 24 & 25 1944.. This was also more famously known as ‘The Great Escape’ …
The prisoners dug a tunnel from their barracks 10 metres underground and 102 metres long to the immediate forest where they had miscalculated and came up a bit short.. 76 men managed to escape before the 77th was spotted by a guard and surrendered. 
The tunnel is marked from entrance to exit by a concrete and rock memorial path which is very well done..
What I like about the camp is that it’s not very touristy. In fact it’s very poorly signposted and unless you knew it was there you would go straight past.. I spent over two hours there walking through the remains and I didn’t see anybody at all. It was a brilliant morning with the sun filtering through the trees, I brewed a coffee, sat on top of the tunnel and took it all in. I even managed to get the drone out and capture some video..
How a beautiful morning can turn into a rubbish afternoon.. The traffic and roadworks into Wroclaw was painful. I think it took me over 2 hours to do 140 kms.. And an accommodation debarkel when I eventually did arrive wasn’t what I needed… Still the accommodation sorted in the end – the strike rate so far is still pretty healthy.. Nothing can overshadow the feeling of being in that POW camp.. 
Wroclaw is a major city and is a lot bigger than I ever anticipated. Traffic is thick and you need to keep your wits about you, because if a mad Polish driver doesn’t get you, a city light rail train might.
Just confirms what I already know, cities aren’t for me. I’m at my happiest twisting through the countryside and small town accomodation will do me fine.
Obviously big cities can’t be avoided they just have things you can’t get anywhere else and I treated the Big Girl to another wash and a chain lube before I left Wroclaw this morning. 
My route today will take me into the Czech Republic where I will wind my way West along the border to the town of Nachod, then I will re-enter Poland and make my way to Auschwitz.
It’s a lovely day and the ‘B’ roads to the Czech republic border are busy but bearable.. Once over the border it was like a different world. The roads got twistier, riding through the ski fields, little traffic and the scenery was spectacular.
The town of Trutnov is gorgeous and I pulled in for lunch at a lovely cafe in the town square.. The Czechs obviously take pride in the quality, presentation and quantity of their food because my meal was brilliant. I won’t be wanting dinner tonight that’s for sure.
A short run but a damn good one of 70 kms and I’m in the small town of Nachod at my Spanish look and feel apartment.. This is bargain territory – my brilliant lunch and really nice apartment for well under $100..
Rain is forecast for this afternoon so I’m up early and awayfrom my farmhouse BnB by 8.30, a short 10 minute ride east to the town of Lyn, then north towards Ketzryn. 
Just short of Ketzryn on the right there’s a Cobblestone track and up that track after a few kilometres is the first of the bunkers that make up Adolf Hitlers command “Wolfs Lair”
These are out of the main compound and are general-purpose bunkers.
Down the track a little further are the naval and air force High Command bunkers, which then brings us to the main compound on the other side of the railway tracks.
This is where the official will gladly take your entry money but in return offer safe parking of your bike next to the compound.. Sounds like a fair deal to me.
I was told if you really want to get the most out of your experience visiting Hitler’s Wolfs Lair to track down a guide , obviously a guide that speaks English would be a wise choice..
I tracked down my guide who was a lovely Polish man that had been doing this for 36 years and soon became apparent that this guy knew his stuff.
The place is like a small city, it is huge and it had its own railway station, power station, communication centre, two airfields, a barbershop, the list goes on. In all 80 buildings once covered the 2 1/2: square kilometre site which amazed me as I had no idea it was that big.
The reason Poland was chosen for the Site is that it was out of bombing range from the allied aircraft.
Also mind boggling was the logistics of building this city.. The amount of concrete used is astronomical. Hitlers Bunker Is obviously the biggest, and the roof was concrete 8 1/2 meters thick, walls 3 meters.. Himmler and Gorings bunkers were nearby. The so called Fuhrer spent a total of 800 days there during the war until he ordered that the buildings be blown up as they fled with the approaching Red army 4 days away.. And did not want the Russians to utilise the buildings..
In our tour group was a middle aged Polish guy who was right into this stuff and he was telling me that Hitler was at a gathering and he thought the log fire was exquisite , how it was arranged and burnt so well, so he commandeered the services of this fellow that made the fire and there you have it.. He even had his own fire lighter..
Whilst in the bunker I found a small loose fragment of concrete.. I hope they don’t mind but I’m going to put it with my sand sample from Omaha beach..
It’s 12.30 and the tour is done, a cup of coffee, a bite to eat and I need to get out of here as the place is starting to fill up and the sky is getting pretty black in the direction I’m heading.
Sure enough 10 minutes on the road and I’m pulling over again to put my wets on and I really don’t mind because I had a great morning, though my 150 km run to my nights accommodation is going to be a wet and boring ride..Its times like this you just want to get there, so I abandoned my original route and just hit the GPS for fastest route.. Voila! .. Easy
Just short of 2 hours later I’m in the driveway of my BnB in Nidzica.., Now where’s that hot shower?
My next Point of interest is 2 days away so today is a transport day.. 470 kms so I need to get away reasonably early..and make the most of a window of fine weather..
Yeah right .. Honestly I hadn’t gone a kilometre when the Policia pull me over for a check… I had no idea what the officer was saying so we both resorted to the miming game “give us a clue”.. Passport .. YES.. I got that one… Next one had me stumped.. He was steering a wheel and pointing at the bike.. I thought registration… Naaaa I didn’t get that right .. Next. My green card insurance .. The look on his face told me I bombed out there as well.. Ohh licence.. My Aussie licence didn’t light up his face either.. Ohhh international licence… The look on his face when I produced it told me that’s it.. Woo hoo .. .. He was happy and I was all out of documents so i filed everything away and waved my new playmate goodbye.. I liked that game..
My route today is to take me south west via back roads through Brodnica, Torun, Poznan, Wolsztyn to Nidzica which will put me less than an hours ride to Zagan, my next point of interest. Zagan is the place where the film ” The great escape”based its story. Allied airmen were held here in a Pow camp and escaped through a tunnel.
A weird event happened just out of Poznan a driver flagged me over ., I thought something must have come loose on my luggage so I pulled into a service station . He just wanted to know my story.. Albeit strange he was a lovely guy and he ran into the shop, grabbed 2 coffees and we sat on the back of his estate car with the back hatch open chatting for 10 minutes..Michael is an intelligent chap and gave me the impression he was just one of those guys that everybody likes.. Good on you mate .. Nice to meet you..
It’s a beautiful clear morning and I’m only about an hour from the Polish border at a little lakeside camping area called Burokaraistėlės Varėnos rajonas, Perloja, Lithuania.. There was a mixup with my booking apparently and my apartment was double booked so there was no accommodation waiting for me when I arrived yesterday. Apparently the Manager had been trying to reach me through the day.. When I arrived it was after a 300 km plus ride day, I was tierd, I was hungry And had to ride up a dirt track to get there. To arrive and find no accommodation …. I wasn’t in a good mood.. Basically I said ‘well, I booked – last night my booking was accepted – I checked again early this morning it was accepted, I’ve been on a motorcycle all day and haven’t checked my phone so that’s not my problem.’ “We only have a 6 bed bungalow left down on the lake ” I was told. “Well, under the circumstances I think it would be fair to offer me that for the same price as my apartment..’ I asserted. OK – done.. Sorted finally..
I’m thinking what a cracker of a day , it’s probably the nicest day for about a week as I am riding my last of the Lithuanian back roads.
As it so happened some of the great forestry roads were crossing the border, so when I do cross the border there was a big surprise to find Border Control in the forest. I don’t know who was more surprised – me or them.. I’m politely asked to stop by the 6’2″ big guy standing in the middle of the road, pushing a stop sign in my face. 
Let’s just say it’s not the conventional way to enter Poland. “Most a peoplz rrrrr don’t comin dis vay.. Vwy do you ..? ” .. Me pointing at Gps and many hand gestures + giving my my paperwork to the older, more official looking of the group, eased the situation..
My paperwork consisting of passport and vehicle registration disappeared into the van – I don’t know what for – whether they had a computer or just talking amongst themselves, though I did find it interesting they never asked me for my riders License or Green Card which is my vehicle insurance.. 
Whilst all this is happening I’m amusing myself with the two guys left to keep an eye on me, who were quite interested in my journey and the motorbike, as an. Australian in these parts – especially on a motorcycle – is quite rare.
Everything must have checked out as my papers were handed back with a nod and as I was putting them away they were packing up and leaving.. Maybe I filled their criteria for the day.
One thing that was quite obvious when entering Poland was the vast improvement in the road surface and how well maintained the roads and surrounding vegetation was kept. 
I think it’s a combination of the weather, road surface and the beautiful countryside and twisting back roads but this is just an absolutely great ride..
On one of the minor roads, I saw something coming at me in the distance – a horse and cart so I stopped to take a photo.. Giving a wave as he passed on by – a smile, a nod in return said it all to me .. As I watched Ol’ Polish mate clip clop past.. without a care in the world … Love it…
Passing through the pretty town of Gizycko I tucked my Euros away as they are no use here and withdrew The Polish Zloty..
Continuing west past lakes to the village of Ryn and my BnB converted farm house in the Sadry locality.. Putting me a stones throw for my visit to Hitlers “Wolfs Lair”tomorrow.
A quick breakfast hopped on the big girl and 400 m down the road I’ve arrived at Roudone castle.. Actually it’s a stately home or Royal manor now standing where a 16th century Teutonic castle once was.
It’s been added to and handed around quite a few times over the centuries, lovely but Nothing spectacular.
Ok so I’m heading east to my “must see” at Paneriai or Ponary (in German) as it was once known , which is where German forces in WW11 shot over 70000 Jewish , 20000 Polish and 8000 Russian POW’s..
It’s only just out of The major city of Vilnius in a wooded area. 
Between 1941 & 1945 atrocities beyond disbelief happened here , you just can’t prepare yourself for something like that.. I walked from mass grave to mass grave on a beautiful day with the sun flickering through the trees trying to imagine what went on here. 
The prisoners were marched from a nearby railway station , (which has now gone but the rail line is still there) into the forest and shot. There were memorials written in Hebrew, Russian and Lithuanian, nothing in English , which is I guess how it should be.. Then there were the death pits.. Seven in total.. I must of walked and gazed for over an hour, trying to imagine what happened there, being the only one there made it even more chilling. 
When the Soviets were advancing during the later stages of the war , the nazis tried to cover up the atrocities by exhuming the bodies and burning them. 100000 dead soles.. A bit hard to cover that up I think.. I’ll leave my days blog at that as the rest of the day paled into insignificance after visiting Paneriai.. It’s not for everyone that’s for sure.. I will be at Auschwitz in a week or so .. Mmmmm I think that’s going to be another knock me over type of day as well..
The forecast for today isn’t real flash, light rain may be getting a little bit better tomorrow. I intended to batten down and just head towards my next point of interest which is the town of Raudone.
I wasn’t real keen to ride down a goat track of a dirt road and walk around in the drizzle looking at a Missile base in Plunge.. I looked out of the window in the direction of the missile base and it looked like the sky was clearing…. Bugger it – I’m going to see what these Russian characters got up to.
Twenty kilometres out of town in a forestry area north of Plunge, is a Soviet underground nuclear missile base open for anyone to come underground and see it all..
First up – the road in is rubbish, The last 5 km is a potholed, dirty, slippery road.. Not me .. There was a cycle way.. Running parallel mmmmm.. I tried to justify my careless actions by telling myself there will be no bicycles out today.. And there weren’t.. Should have seen the looks on the car drivers as I motored on past them as they were dodging potholes… Priceless..I motioned like I was peddaling but I don’t think they bought it .
Anyway I paid my 5 euro and joined the tour..
Inside the electric perimeter fence lies 4 X 35 meter deep & 5 meter wide covered silos that housed rockets with 3,300lb nuclear war heads pointed strategically at European cities.. .. Basically if Launched Europe and the U.K. Were to be abliterated..
It was a monumental task for the 10,000 Soviet troops to build this underground command centre which is completely hidden, except for the 4 domes that weighed 300 tonne each and could be removed in 20 minutes .. ..
This is seriously scary stuff.. The fact is the Soviets wanted to gain an advantage on the Americans who were also building similar bases.
So this is the first underground missile base built by the Soviet Union..
The tour takes an hour and it is brilliant.. No detail is covered up or held back.. You can see where the rockets sat., the control room , fuel cell section , with video running in the background of the actual base in operation..Made me stop and think like everyone else there.. That’s for sure..
Ok .. Back on my bicycle.. And I’m off.. Now I batten down as it’s drizzling and frankly I just want to get to my next point sooner rather than later as I have been spoilt with all the beautiful roads in good weather. I have no desire to punish myself on wet twisty roads..
So I am now in Raudone where my Hosts greeted me with their daughter ( translator) who already had my flat toasty warm with a fire burning , which was great for drying my gear. X they even had a garage for the Big Girl…. hopefully I can see a castle tomorrow..and the Paneriai site…..
I couldn’t help but be in a good mood this morning after a beautiful cooked breakfast, brewed coffee and a good nights sleep in my B&B all this for a total of $ 35. How good is that? That has got a be the deal of my trip so far.
It looks like I’m only about an hour from the Latvian border, it’s overcast and the sky looks threatening. Will I or won’t I put on my wets…. Naaaa bugger it, I’ll risk it..
Once again I choose the roads less travelled on my way to Latvia, with a bit of dirt thrown into the mix, back on the tar round a corner and there it is , the “Latvia” sign..
Of course I had to stop for the obligatory happy snaps, selfie and pondering moment of where I’ve been and where I’m heading.
OK moment over, – those clouds look like they’re going to send some water my way, Yep – about 10 minutes later I was reaching for my wets, and 10 minutes after that I was taking them back off again. Thankfully that would be the last time I would need them for the day.
The Countryside is just as lovely as Estonia with the same run down buildings, people on push bikes in no particular hurry to be anywhere but Latvia has a lot more dirt road options, which I gladly used – zig zagging my way south to Sigulda.. The highlight of the day was the run through Gauja National park to the pretty little town of Ligatne, where you can walk the paper mill trail, which is what ‘made’ the town when it was in production. Remnants are still there etched into the cliffs, along with the workings down on the stream.
The town is also planted out with flowers and a has massive central pond,, ahhh yes a feel good kind of place.
A short run into Sigulda finishes my day, time to check in and walk the town..
I woke this morning to sunshine forcing its way through the cane blinds, and instantly knew it was going to be a lovely day. No great rush it’s an average km day, 300km should see me at my nights accommodation in Lithuania.
My B&B was just the ticket. I Had the place all to myself as no one else had checked in. It’s brilliant having a kitchen and that’s one of the criteria I look for now when booking, not always available but sometimes you can be lucky and I’d rather have basic accommodation with the kitchen than the flash motel without one.
Lawrence was a very good host who lived in the house behind and he let me put the Big Girl in his garden.
The reason I headed towards Sagulda was to see the medieval castle on the edge of town, so this morning that is where I’m going. I rode around the castle and found a private little courtyard where I snuck the Big Girl in – “she’ll be safe here”.
Just as I was getting off the bike a middle-aged couple were looking at me so I raised my hand and said good morning, and I got a smile and a wave in return.
We started talking and the gentleman was very interested in my journey, his wife was just standing there with her jaw open..
They were a lovely couple and we talked for 10 or 15 minutes and ends up they were travel guides from Switzerland. As we entered the mediaeval castle grounds the gentleman had paid for my entry. ” you are my guest , you have come a long way”. I did everything but insist to no avail, so my next alternative was to be a very thankful. Which I was, take the money out of the equation the fact is that the gentleman is a lovely man with a big heart, simple as that.
The three of us strolled around and chatted for a while until they had to leave so I dug deeper into the history of the castle.
It was built sometime between 1207 and 1209 by German warrior monks better known as “brothers of the Livonian sword”. Yes – German warrior monks, these monks had attitude. You don’t mess around with these monks.
It was used as a base by the monks whilst battling revolting Livonians from a nearbyby castle, though its primary use was to monitor the use of the Gauga river that ran by.
I crossed into Lithuania about an hour later and all is going well the GPS was leading me on some beautiful roads until it started playing tricks on me, taking me up gravel roads more and more gravel roads. Not that there’s anything wrong with that I don’t mind at all but these were just horrendous. It was like riding over ballbearings and the big girl was moving sideways as well as forward. We got through in the end unscathed and the Big Girl was talking to me again flashing her dash light at me saying “I need a drink please …and sooner rather than later..” Ok onto the GPS fuel services, auto fuel ..go oops 57 Ks away and I have 50 km range.. Ok back off , sit on 80 and we’ll get there…. Which we did.. Good on you girl ….
Plain sailing the rest of the way into my accommodation just passing some moving entertainment on the way in. Overloaded lorries lawnmowers pulling trailers horse drawn carts. I even passed one guy miles from anywhere in an electric disabled buggy .. I don’t know where he was going but I hope he had enough charge to get there. I arrived at my accommodation on the outskirts of Plunge once again I have the whole house to myself happy days..
Ever had one of those mornings where you can’t find a damn thing, yep well that was me this morning. Then I locked myself out of the building when I was loading the bike and reception hadn’t opened yet so I couldn’t get in.. ” Oh bugger this I’m going to get a coffee”.. Lucky I had my wallet on me, so I walked down the street to get a coffee and give myself a good talking to. 
When I returned, reception had opened. I found my stolen objects that had mysteriously returned, packed the bike and ready to go ….see coffee fixes everything.
My plan for the day was to head east towards the soviet union to the town of Johvi.
As the crow flies it was only 150 km but my route was to take me north and follow the coastline of the Baltic Sea and Gulf of Finland. 
I truly enjoyed my stay in Tallinn but I need to see more of Estonia.
As I was riding Along I was thinking how neighbouring countries can impact on one another such as Finland does on Estonia..
For instance on paper Estonia consumes more alcohol than nearly any other country, but it’s the Finns who come over and by pallets of the stuff and take back, because it’s markedly cheaper.. They also come over for dental work, shopping and all kinds of stuff.. Equally there have been many cases of highly educated Estonians, leaving for construction jobs in Finland as it pays substantially more…
My run out of town was pretty straight forward and it wasn’t long before I found myself on minor B roads heading for the coast. A lot of this area is covered by Lahemaa National Park and an absolutely beautiful ride twisting and turning mile after mile through the pine trees with the sun filtering through and catching glimpses of the Baltic Sea. Not a bad morning’s work at all..
I passed through a remote little village of Loksa and a sad economically disadvantaged village of Vihasoo, where multiple story run down social housing were the dominant structures in the area.. There was a communal clothes line in front of the buildings near the main road, which I found a little strange as well. 
This was another side of Estonia tucked away in the back blocks and definitely not in any tourism office..
Drifting towards my BNB at a steady pace which was near the coast north of Johvi I called in to give the big girl a drink and myself a bite to eat at Johvi, stopped at the local store for supplies and good to go again.A 10 minute run out of town and I’m in the driveway of my accommodation. An easy day and not a bad ride .. 
8 o’clock breakfast this morning and while it was being prepared I was busy packing the big girl as we were keen to get moving on this another beautiful sunny day. My B&B hosts were fantastic and couldn’t do enough for me including giving me some tourist tips. Prices are definitely getting cheaper in Eastern Europe $53AUD a night with a cooked breakfast you can’t complain can you.
My tip for the day was to check out the Monastery on the way out of town it’s the only working monastery in Estonia.
On the way out of town I really wasn’t paying any attention to anything in particular until I hear a siren behind me and blue lights flashing .. Oops it’s the boys.. I get the sign to pull over and obviously do.. 
Two polisti emerge . One normal looking guy and the other that looked like Rambo, Schwarzenegger, and Dulf Lundren all in the one package.. ” Do u no vwat spid dis his along hir”
” I’m guessing 90 mate, I don’t really know as I’ve just come out of a side street onto the main road”
” Vwel is 70 kph on znew unmarket road”
” sorry buddy didn’t know the rules on new unmarked tar ” jeez who does..
Any way Rambo and Ol mate convers in Estonian whilst checking out the big girl..
” Ok you go….. and ride at 70 now”… Onya boys thanks mate.. Even got a smile out of them… 
I secretly think they just wanted to check out the big girl.. Yeah I’ll go with that line..
Having dodged a bullet there I’m back heading south and 20 kms west of the Russian border and my accommodation is 10 kms north of the Latvian border.. How I get between the two places is entirely up to me.
My route is to take me through farmland Estonia, places that you don’t see in any tourism brochure.
There’s a lot of people doing it tough out in these places..
First up I decided to check out this monastery that the hosts told me about. You couldn’t miss it towering copper roof domes protruding above the trees. The gates were open and it was free for anybody just to walk in and have a look, so I did it was wonderful, sprawling over acres and acres of land pristine buildings all part of the only working monastery in Estonia. 
The buildings were obviously spectacular but what got me were the two woodpiles stacked metres high in the shape of turrets. OK how do you extract the wood without the whole thing toppling over. Do you get a high ladder and take it off the top one at a time or do you withdraw it out of the middle like a game of kerplunk and hope the whole thing doesn’t come crashing down… Mm one of life’s great mysteries.
Another must stop and take a picture moment we’re the home made brooms that the gardeners were using, they wouldn’t have looked out of place in a wicked witch of the west film.
The countryside was absolutely wonderful, lush and fertile. What I wasn’t expecting was the amount of abandoned buildings, that were obviously once somebodies home or business.. There were loads of them.. And it was common site to see pushbike’s being ridden by older people on country roads miles from anywhere. This is often there only mode of transport out here, a car would be an unaffordable luxury.
I passed one timber mill and there must’ve been 20 or 30 push bikes out the front and no vehicles
I also passed a woman walking with a bag in each hand and I took note to keep an eye out for the nearest house honestly I didn’t see one for another 3 kilometres.
My 340 km ride passed through the major eastern town of Tartu where I fuelled up and grabbed some lunch, as cafes are virtually non-existent in the country areas, they are not on any tourist routes and the locals can’t afford to eat there.
A 30 km run now to my hostel near the Latvian border, might check in and do a bit of maintenance on the big girl . The front of her is in dire need of debugging.
Tomorrow I cross into Latvia
The ferry ride to Estonia was a doddle, though a thick fog blanketed us the whole way and old mate upstairs behind the wheel was having fun with fog horn button.. And I felt like going up and telling him where he could stick ……….anyway it was like a mill pond the whole way and I’m sure if we hadn’t of tied the bikes down they still would have been where we left them when we arrived..
I met the two other riders back on the vehicle deck when we were getting ready to disembark. We had a bit of a laugh and joke and I was repeatedly told to chain everything up when I’m in Eastern Europe don’t leave anything on the bike for any period of time unsupervised or unlocked..
I was giving Boris the Estonian Rider heaps about his number plate and how rubbish they looked In Estonia knowing full well he had lost it on his trip and made a temporary plate to get home…I’m glad he was on the same wavelength as I don’t think I’d like to get on the wrong side of Boris..
Rolling off the ferry about 10-ish escaping the random Estonian police search I pulled over and punched in the address of my motel into my GPS, as my plan was to check in and spend the afternoon walking around the city of Tallinn
Once again I found myself following my little blue arrow through a foreign city and it faultlessly led me right to my apartment in the city centre. ” thank you Gps I love you”.
WOW what a lovely apartment. Everything I want, even a safe lockup parking area for the big girl. Prices in Eastern Europe are much lower than the Scandinavian countries and even Western Europe,so it should be easier on the wallet for a while now.
My planned afternoon walk through the city of Tallinn was cut short by afternoon drizzle, though I really liked what I saw so I rang my motel reception and asked if I could extend my stay one more night. ” No problem sir, happy to have you stay longer with us”. Now to the tourist information Centre. I asked if there are any walking tours of the city, and there was one tomorrow at midday. ” Great that’ll do me fine. When I say city I mean the ” old town”. the old town within the city dates back thousands of years, with its cobblestone streets, zig zag alleys and amazing buildings. Sure I could have got a map and bumbled my way around the town but I wanted to know the story behind the city.
The next morning brought with it brilliant sunshine, so I headed out of my apartment grabbed a coffee and it was only a short 10 minute walk to the old town where I browsed around for a little while, eventually arriving at the tourist information Centre around 12.
A good sized group had gathered outside and soon split into two groups with two English speaking guides.
We walked around the old town for two hours and I was so glad that I had made the effort to do the tour as the guides really knew their stuff.
If ever a country has had a chequered past, Tallinn has. Being a small country of 1.3 million people, it has been taken over and ruled by the Dutch, the Germans on two occasions and several occasions by the soviet union. ‘Stolen’ if you like and only had its independence since 1991 from The Soviet Union. The shortest independence was in 1918 when it was for just 12 hrs.. The retreating German army left …12 hrs later the Russians arrived…
The people of Tallinn are proud citizens and never really lost their identity or hope and in 1981 they formed a human chain of over 2 million people from the Baltic states, stretching from the capital Riga in Latvia to Tallinn – ” The Baltic Chain” – in protest of soviet rule… They never had a Christmas or Easter as the Soviets don’t believe in religion and even today there is second and third generation Soviet influence. There are some Russian only schools and communities still accounting for about 25% of the population.
The town square which dates back to medieval times is still there = only now surrounded by Cafes instead of traders selling their wares.
Tomorrow I’m off to follow Estonia’s northern boundary at the Baltic Sea towards the Soviet Union.. I’m so glad I made the effort to see more of this Estonian city .. I think it’s beautiful. The people are lovely, the food is sensational, and it’s a ‘feel good’ kind of place…I truly would come here again…
I had a chance last night to work out roughly where I need to be in the grand scheme of things and I reckon I m about bang on target.. Maybe a little ahead so I’m going to cut my kms down for a day or two , and have a couple of sleep ins… Time to recharge a little…I was always in two minds whether to head back south via Finland or Sweden and had made a bold call earlier to make it Finland.
On the ferry to Norway I met a guy who lives there and is also motorcyclist. He basically told me that the route south through Sweden would appeal to my love of sweeping bends and far better scenery than Finland, the consequence being a longer ferry ride to Estonia from Stockholm than Helsinki. ” Done worth the trade off”.
I head off out of Mo I Rana…(Gotta love that name) down the E 12 towards Sweden oooooh statoil ….got to stop for my last free coffee…well it wasn’t free actually cost me $50 …I reckon I’m about even here too ….
My route south would see me at the Norwegian/ Swedish border within an hour or so on this beautiful sunny day and I had to stop one last time with my feet on Norwegian soil..It has left a mark on me that’s for sure….the ever changing landscape along with feats of engineering prowess are a credit to the people. No wonder tourists flock here in there thousands despite the exhorbinant prices..
Crossing the border was no real event and the snow capped mountains were still catching my eye as I headed south east on the E12. They were getting fewer by the time I linked up with the E45 as the warmer air was getting quite noticeable. The outside air temperature , so the big girl was telling me was 24. Deg, so take the wind chill out and you could add a couple more….”Yes give me some more of this please ” .The trade off being the ” must stop and take a photo” moments were fading. Mind you riding through the pine forests of Sweden was not a hard task at all.
I thought the E 12 would be boring ……..wrong again, it was a good ride twisting and turning with the snow caps as a backdrop all the way to the Border.
I followed the E45 still enjoying the view and pulled in to give the big girl a drink…I must say my first contact with a swede was a good one…. As the coffee machine instructions are in Swedish and my chance of making the right choice looked about 1 in 6
The guy came over and made it for me and asked if there was anything else..What’s this he’s smiling and actually conversing with me ……thats something I haven’t seen much of for over a week.
Whats this ahead….Noooooo cant be…It is ..Reindeer. I made a U turn and killed the motor…I must have watched them for 10 minutes..I havnt seen Reindeer before and to see them in the wild was a real buzz for me..
.
I followed the E 45 down through small towns and noticed an emerging pattern of S type entrances & exits to the towns which were narrow and had concrete kerbs obviously to cut down your speed , not really sure if its first in best dressed or what the process is …..I’ll work it out as I go.
Pulled into Vilhelmina about 3 ish , checked in and went for a walk around this nice little town. picked up some food as my unit has a kitchen …..yep going to eat a healthy dinner tonight…
It’s a shame that a lot of Norwegian history isn’t showcased, and if you want to find out …say about the Viking history you really have to go digging.. There’s nothing that I could say was prominent about them… I know they only ruled the land for around 250 years but they were unique to Scandinavia.
Period Architecture is also virtually non existent unlike mainland Europe and the U.K….so if you go to Norway expecting a history lesson, be prepared to start digging.
There’s still no love lost between the Norwegians and Swedes, 16th & 17 th century wars saw a great portion of land taken by Sweden and Norway was still under Swedish rule up until .1905..
One thing that stands out & you can’t miss is the national paint colour scheme for the housing, which I thought might have been confined to Norway.. Naaa , Sweden follows suit.. Believe me when I say 8 out of 10 dwellings are painted a brownish/ red with white trim Windows…. I quite like it and was amazed at this nation wide display…
Around Arvidsjaur I couldn’t believe my luck as I spotted 2 reindeer grazing near the road… A quick ” U” turn, cut the motor and I just watched them for 10 minutes. Quite a sight as I’ve never had the opportunity to see these creatures before, let alone in the wild….Brilliant….
I followed the shores of multiple lakes, dabbed my toe into some pine forests all the way to my farm BnB at Brunflo. Another good find on Booking.com with a very gracious host, comfy room, lounge and kitchen at my disposal… Obviously I wasn’t the only one that thought it was a good find as 3 other groups arrived after me… Down to the local ICA grocery store and Its pasta night for Phil tonight.
One more overnight stay in Sweden and I’m off to Estonia via the ferry from Stockholm and didn’t Sweden turn on a crackka of a day.
I left Brunflo early as it was moving day, time to get moving. I have a ferry to catch to Estonia tomorrow afternoon and Stockholm was still over 600 kms away…
Ok make a call Phil… Right then , big kms today and an easy run to the ferry tommorrow..What a good call this turned out to be …
It was a perfect summer like day and leaving early meant I could take more fun roads which are more to my liking…480 kms and 1 1/2 tanks of fuel later I arrive in Hedemora .. No worst for wear…and in a good mood after seeing my BnB …
When I book my next nights accommodation I really don’t care where it is as long as it’s some where close to my route and within my Km range.. The rest falls into place…
Hedemora holds no special interest for me. It was cheap compared if I had stayed 60 kms further on .I would rather ride a little less or further and stay somewhere nice. And better value.
Well it’s run to the ferry day…what a good call to do the big kms yesterday..it’s raining and rained all the way to the ferry, so no fun roads , just batten down and go for it.
I arrived at the ferry check in early, just to see where I am supposed to be going ….”What’s this? some cars already in line” gates don’t open for two more hrs. Ok ride up and take a look… There are toilet facilities, shelter .. Ok I have my thermos, I filled this morning, food, it’s all good, so I pulled my Hellinox chair out of my kit bag and set up camp…. It really was a rubbish day and Riding round the city killing time, sightseeing didn’t really do it for me in these circumstances….
Gates open and head to designated ferry gate… It’s here I met 2 riders, one Estonian going home and a Norwegian rider going to work there for a few weeks. Great guys , that talked my language and time passed so much quicker.
Checked in and my cabin is a ripper, as it’s an outside cabin and spacious ….A 16 hour cruise to Estonia in comfort, ,,,that’ll do me …..
Up early this morning although it’s hard to tell what time it is because the sun really doesn’t set even more so the further north I head.
My goal today is to ride the trollstigen road. The Trollstigen is listed in the worlds greatest roads, it links the towns of Valldal and 55 kms north to the town of Andalsnes& rises to the snow line 850 metres
.
I set off from my Hostel accommodation and it’s not long before I’m following the Norwegian Sea for some 50 kms,all the while keeping an eye on the dark bank of clouds building up ominously in front of me. It was one of those days that you get four seasons in the one day . The high mountain passes were misty cold and wet whereas the valley floors were not too bad at all.. A pretty little spot is Geiranger as the fjord is a favoured dock for cruise liners also Andalsnes, which I noticed as I was leaving the Trollstigen, had two liners in the fjord. The Trollstigen is an engineering masterpiece – the way it ‘drops off the side of the mountain’. Who in their right mind would even contemplate trying to build a road up there? It really is one of those roads that if you go over the edge – that’s it – that’s the end.
Let’s just say that coming down with the Big Girl fully laden and in the wet was very interesting.
As I descended out of the mist it was like riding into another world. The roads were dry and my vision was good. Still at the height of about 300 m I had a lovely view of Andalsnes and two Luxury liners moored in the fjord. Much as I wanted to stop, it was too touristy for me – I still had two more ferries to catch before I got to my nights accommodation.
Arriving at my hostel in Molde I am greeted by a German motorcycle ride group on a trip of their own with a support vehicle carrying their bags… I didn’t tell them this but I think that’s cheating or maybe it’s just that I’m jealous..
Anyway it’s time to unload my gear into my booking.com bargain and just relax..
I don’t know what’s doing this morning – I just can’t get my act together. I need to get going – it’s an absolutely glorious day – blue sky everywhere. Finally the bike is packed, I walk over to the hall for breakfast which is included in my room rate.
I am waved over and sit with the German riders for breakfast, I glare at their plates full of meats, cheese, bread and jam…. Just looking at it I’m starting to feel ill. If you sold toasters in Norway you’d go broke. I go the usual safe option – muesli boiled eggs and bread and butter oh yes and coffee.
My mission today is to hook up with Kristiansund via the Atlantic Road and honestly the day is absolutely perfect. It’s the best weather I’ve had in Norway so far. The Atlantic Road is a really nice ride and the scenery spectacular but as far as riding goes there’s a hidden gem between Bergsoya and Hov. Following the Waters edge for 80 odd kilometres on a beautiful road surface with big long sweeping bends and very minimal traffic made this the find of the day.
Yesterday was tunnel day. Today is bridge day.
Crossing many interesting bridges on my venture north to the town of Steinkjer. My cabin is another 40 km further on, out of town and I’m
hoping you can see them from the road or that there is a sign as the address is not registering on my GPS. Luck was on my side as they were well signposted and it wasn’t long before the Big Girl was checked in and I was reflecting on the day… Yep I really do think this is the best days riding I’ve had in Norway so far…
It might have been a $50 a night cabin but I slept like it was a $200 motel and it was so good having the bike just out the front door for a change – I only have had to carry my gear 2 metres to the bike. These little cabins are scattered throughout Norway – some with en suites and fully kitted out – some basic like a solid tent. Take your pick and pay for what you want.
My cabin had shared facilities but it had its own stove, a fridge, a comfy bed and a table. So – next morning, a bowl of cereal, a coffee and I’m good to go… Today I’m heading for Mo I Rana to the north, accommodation is more plentiful there and it’s a good middle distance for my run into The Arctic Circle the following day..
A stop to give the big girl a drink which can be a mission in itself. I find it easier just to pull up at the fuel station, get off press the touch screen, Yes – English, pump number, pay inside the store and I’m good to go.. If you go to a card only fuel station it can be a nightmare.. They tend to like visa credit not debit.. And cash the – Norwegian Nok has gotta be the weirdest currency ever. I fill my bike up, have something to eat and it’s nearly 400 Nok. So that’s 2x 200 Nok notes .. Your wallet is stuffed and you think you’re a millionaire but it’s empty at the end of the day.. I don’t bother any more, the cards so much easier.
Okay – I’m off. A full tank should get me through the whole day. Lots of cloud around and my wet weather gear is at easy reach but as it turns out it won’t be needed. There’s a bit of holiday traffic around so I’ve glanced down at the GPSto find back roads to get me to Mo I Rana.. “This looks alright – why not”. Ducking and weaving through out of the way villages and over lovely cable bridges. “This is more like it” .. I cut back onto the main road on my last leg into Mo I Rana, ” Oi’d better pull into that Statoil for my free latte “
Coffee in one hand and fumbling with my GPS in the other trying to find my motel with my fingers pressing all the wrong digits.. ” For gods sake – who designed this?”. Obviously someone with pencil slim fingers…
As it turns out, I was riding around the street like an idiot looking for this Fjordgarden Motel.. As booked on Booking.com .. Can’t Find this damn place.. Stop and ask for directions .. Oops that’s right I Can’t understand you .. You sound like the chef from the Muppets.. Off I go .. Have another look on the iPhone .. , ” hang on – this picture looks like that building over there.. The builders had the sign down as they were doing renovations on the reception building. Turns out it was worth the hassle as it was a very nice place to stay..
I didn’t know much about Mo I Rana when I booked my accommodation other than it had a funny name and that it looked a small town. Wrong! It’s a nice size town with lots going on.
The reason I booked two nights here is I knew it was under a two hour run to the Arctic circle and as I was heading back south through Sweden after the Circle, the plan was to leave my luggage in the motel and spend the day, to …..from …..and at the circle. It worked out perfectly …
Heading off to the Circle the weather looked rubbish and I actually put my wets on before leaving…I wasn’t impressed as I wanted this day to be a good one… “Oh well it is Norway… The country of four seasons in one day” and off I set filled with anticipation.
I caught and followed a motorcycle for, must have been 20 minutes until road works halted us … “At last we meet” he says. ..”yes mate – you were riding at a good Ol pace there so I thought I’d sit behind”. He was an Irish chap also on his way to the Arctic circle… We had a good chat waiting for the road to clear… And I know he appreciated the fact I sat a safe distance behind him as we were having fun through the mountains and I didn’t have an ego to satisfy by making a stupid passing move on him….
As we were chatting I completely failed to notice blue skies above …. How good is this…….As we took off and I got the Gesture for me to lead …20 minutes later riding the barren but somewhat beautiful landscape what’s this sign ahead.? .. ” Polar Sirkelen 1 km” …..YES YES YES…. I was here ……
Pulling into the Arctic centre was great timing as I was cold …four layers of good quality riding gear was doing a great job and I warmed up quickly when I got off the bike..
One can only try and imagine how hostile this land can become when the seasons change but for now I was enthralled in its beauty.
“Right where’s the coffee machine”. This beauty will have to wait a few minutes….inside the centre is usual tourist information which is quite good, but let me back outside, this is where it’s at..
A monument nearby depicts all the nations that have endeavoured to tame this land and as I walked further I could here no voices just the wind rustling my outer layer…which was a beautiful sound as I looked in all directions, nothing absolutely nothing…fantastic…
I stayed there for what seemed ages .. Before heading back inside, where I chatted to a few people who were curious about my journey and did the obligatory camera swap..” I’ll take your picture if you’ll take mine”.
Well – time to leave and I felt really satisfied with the experience having crossed the 66*33′ mark. It’s something I will treasure and always look back on with a sense of achievement. Ironic that I am 33 % through my journey with 66% to go…
Walking back to the Big Girl, I looked at her and said “you really do need a bath” so I made a point of a good Ol pressure clean at the local fuel station on the way back into town… Gave her the once over and good to go.
Tommorrow south bound To Sweden..
The motor barely gets warm on the bike as I arrive at the ferry wharf from my swish accommodation at Hirtshals last night, swish not by choice, it was either that or a tent.
Hirtshals is one of those places that the tourists outnumber the local residents..and the gateway for bidding entrepreneurs who buy goods cheaper in Germany or the like and resell in Norway. Norway has a massive tax on most goods..
3 hrs later I’m disembarking the ferry and being confused with yet another currency.. the Norwegian Nok.. One good thing is you buy anything by card, in fact they encourage it.. You can buy a wet wipe by card if you like.. The unlikeliest person will whip out their card machine to help you part with your hard earned ..
A 15 minute run out of town and I’m at my air BnB flat .. Ready for my Norway leg in the morning
There’s no hurry this morning as it’s only a short 200 km run from Kristiansand to Stavanger, it’s drizzling and I’m in no hurry to get out my super comfy bed. The weather is supposed to clear tomorrow so hopefully I can take on the beautiful scenery out of Stavanger on dry road.
My air B&B for the night was a great little find just on the outskirts of Stavanger, a self-contained granny flat and the hosts Morton and Matta were fantastic, they even parked their BMW out on the street so the big girl could have a good night sleep in their garage.
Norway is obscenely expensive so it’s worth a little bit of time on the smart phone sourcing accommodation deals. I’m using booking.com and air B&B.
When I say obscenely dear I mean obscene. In Australian dollars a beer will cost you $13, fuel is $2.50 per litre and to buy my bike in Norway would cost you well over $50,000, it’s the most heavily taxed country in the world.
You can do Norway quite reasonably cheap, well cheaper than what you could be paying. Stay just on the fringe of the main towns, eat out less often and buy your groceries at the supermarket rema 1000 & coop are big grocery chains over here. Bring your spirits from Germany and you will save a packet. If you’re tight with your money Norway probably isn’t for you. 
I’ve allowed for these exhorbitant prices and so far I’m under budget so all is good.
I set off late morning preparing myself for a long boring motorway ride to Stavanger in the drizzle.
The scenery was sensational (and this is supposed to be the boring part). I must have ridden through 10 or 12 tunnels some 3 and 4 km long blasted through the side of the mountain. Some of the tunnels were curved, some of them had S Bends, some linked by a bridge so you would ride from tunnel across the bridge into another tunnel, across the bridge and into another tunnel…. Lovin that…
The speed limit is ridiculously low for such terrific roads, 70 & 80 kph is the limit. I drifted over on a couple of occasions and soon reeled the big girl back in as the speeding fines here are, yes you guessed it – obscene.. A ticket here can easily cost you in the four digits and it’s on the spot.. In the remote North is where the big girl can relax and happily play on the twisty roads..
The roads were dry the last 80 km into Stavanger which I hope is a good sign, and I called in to give the big girl a drink and myself with my Statoil free coffee cup.. You can buy a coffee cup from Statoil which is a nationwide chain of fuel stations in Norway which gives you free refills as many as you like all through Norway for $50 I thought it was a bargain,,
Fuel station food and coffee over here is nothing like in Australia it’s actually quite good because competition is so fierce,, you could do a lot worse….
Staying just on the outskirts of Stavanger being the cheap arse that I am saw me arrive at my hostel, my own ensuite room comfy bed, great Wi-Fi, good parking for the big girl and breakfast included for 80 dollars… That’ll do me fine…
I sort of stuffed up a little bit as I usually think about what I’m going to have for dinner on the way in to town so it’s either I eat out or stop at the supermarket on the way in. I did neither and I ended up going for a 25 minute walk for dinner.. The walk won’t and hurt and I can say hello to the locals.. Who by the looks of it mainly ride bicycles ,, bicycles absolutely everywhere,, good on them come to think of it I haven’t seen a fat Norwegian yet… 
Day done let’s hope tomorrow brings some sunshine..
Today I have two options the easy way is to head straight north and pick up the coast road, second option is to actually head west to Lysebotn and then catch the ferry part way back so I would actually be doing an arc and then head north..
Bugger it – I’ll go the long way. I have always wanted to do the Serpentine Road down to Lysebotn & lysefjord.
It was a clear morning – “yes” off to a good start until you guessed it, my first tunnel,, I mean they were fun to start with but come on enough with the tunnels… In the next day or so I should come across one that is supposed to be 25 km long.. Jeez that’s further than my trip to work from Maitland to Waratah..
I told myself I will just keep riding today and limit my photos .. didn’t work.. Every few kilometres I would turn a bend and there’d be just something bigger and better for me to capture..
I could see the mist rolling across the top of the mountains in the distance and consulting my GPS “yep that’s the direction I’m heading”
Up at the top I found the cloud and mist and there was still snow lining the roads Which I followed to the cafe at the top of the Serpentine Road..
Coffee time,,, or in my terms “smoko”.. 
Bikes lined the entrance and you could see all the eyes focusing on an entering rider = that’d be me on this occasion,
Morning guys.. I could have said anything as all I got was a look of acknowledgement and a foreign tone ..
The cafe is built on the edge of the cliff and the views are spectacular over the fjord..Ok coffee done. I walk back outside and find out the big girl has some admirers. There’s about six or more riders talking amongst themselves and pointing at the bike I did make out one word and it was Ostralie.. A fumbling of words and gestures on my behalf managed a grin from the group and with that winning moment I climbed aboard .. Time to head down to Lysefjord.. 
I lost count how many hairpin bends got me to the tunnel three quarters the way down the mountain, which goes back into the mountain a few hundred meters, does a 180° turn drops and then comes out at the bottom in the valley floor..
The Lysefjord was exactly how I pictured it “stunning”.. I had an hour to wait for the 6 PM ferry so I kicked around till boarding..
Cruising the fjord for just over an hour before my departure was a really nice change and my wild camping for the night added to that feeling..
I carry camping gear mainly for emergency accomodation, though it was a lovely night and I just felt like it so why not…
All packed upand coffee brewing ready to go by eight, the sky is clear and I need to do some big kms today to make up for my detour yesterday..
Riding the valley floor with mountain peaks on both sides is probably one of my favourite scenes and today was one of those days.
Two fjord crossings by ferry and I am passing the Foigefonna glacier near the town of Odda.. Spectacular..!
Not long after I cross the Hardanger bridge which spans Two tunnels one with a roundabout, another sigh in the helmet moment.. God these Norwegians know how to build roads
And to top it off just short of Sogndal, my nights accommodation I take on the 25 km tunnel .. Thats one big drill.. My nights accommodation is a little preloved cabin with gorgeous fjord views a few kms out of town… Lovely spot and Lem the owner is a nice man, somewhat delusional with his pet goats and the price related to expectations policy that he has obviously misplaced.
But a nice man just the same.. “By the way Lem, those goats aren’t going to chew anything on my bike tonight are they” ” No, No they good goats” .. Yeah right , I caught one eyeing off my tent bag earlier..
As luck would have it they were good goats..,
F
The Waldeck Hotel was one of those places that just makes you feel good, the rooms were great and the meal was terrific it is good value and breakfast was included in the room rate. It’s the best €45 I have spent.
Today I move North again via beautiful German countryside via Kassel and Herzberg to my destination Schneverdingen some 400 kms away.
The further I move North the more apparent windfarms tend to be, not a few grouped together but dozens upon dozens, it’s like something out of a sci-fi movie. I agree with the concept but they just dominate the landscape to the extent it just looks wrong, but then again where I come from we dig holes in the ground kilometres wide …what looks worse?
Arriving in Schneverdingen I lapped the town looking for somewhere that I might like to eat tonight, yep okay great plenty of choices now to find my B&B.
Well I thought I scored well last night this place was brilliant the B&B over here is called a pension, my own private good size bedroom with ensuite a shared kitchen with its own coffee machine, you beauty and Helga let me use the Garage for the big girl, € 44 with breakfast.. Hell yeah…
Today I set off for Denmark and somehow I think the rain is going to catch me today, I’ve been blessed I know as I havnt had to reach for my wets in 3 weeks.
The rain found me early so I abandoned my twisty scenic route to Denmark and just ended up on the motor way and treated the day as a transport run. The rain wasn’t heavy, more of an anoyance but I had bigger problems. Northern Germany / Denmark was always going to be a tyre & oil change for the big girl, though I wasn’t counting on what was to follow. Crossing the border the big girl stalled on me and again at a fuel stop.. ” what’s doing girl “… Anyway I googled KTM Norway and ” Jensons” KTM was on my route, so I made it there though not very gracefully, and told them of my concerns… yep ok we will look at it in the morning… Great that’ll do me…
8.00 am I’m there.. Met by Soren the workshop manager..and Jacob, a loveable guy who knows his stuff… Jacob had the big girl up on the hoist before I could get my jacket off and had the oil draining soon after.. Back wheel out as Soren brought in the tyre.. Jacob summoned me over to look at the rear brake pads … WTF… They were all but gone.. Note to self: change riding habits….
Now onto the issue of bike stalling…Diagnostic computer picked up a couple of fault codes , but nothing that would cause this issue,,, ok now what , looks like good old process of elimination… Maybe the fuel filter is blocked , so I pulled the pump and replaced it with a spare I brought along …. No same problem, Jacob runs a pressure gauge on the fuel pump itself….Bingo.. The gauge is going all over the shop. ” .pumps failing”… ” I’ ll see if We have one in stock, have some coffee and some home made rum balls , there great ” he says as he disappeared around the corner…
To my astonishment He comes back wheeling a brand new 1190 Adventure R .. ” we don’t have a pump in stock, but I will pull this one out and put it in yours”
Are you for real.. I wasn’t expecting these guys to go this far above and beyond my wildest optimistic expectations…
Briefly Jacob led me outside and said ” take a ride on this”. It was an electric free ride KTM…Hell yeah…I’ve never ridden an electric bike…the torque was phenomenal …and it was actually easy to ride…no clutch and no stalling…speaking of stalling
It was awesome to hear the big girl bark into life again with that unmistakable deep burble….and
I cannot express my sincere gratitude enough to Soren & Jacob for the service they provided…Honestly it was downright amazing…..I have been blessed with awesome Back up that’s for sure. Both Jensons and KTM Newcastle … Superb…On my way to the tip of Denmark hopefully for my ferry to Norway tommorrow… Sandra you’re a gem booking the ferry and sorting accommodation as I was high tailing it here……What a day and to top it off I was riding into blue skies….
I looked out of the window this morning and it was an absolutely cracking day so I packed the bike , skipped breakfast rolled out of the motel and was on my way by 730. Its days like these you really like to make the most of.My route was to take me through Luxembourg and I was sailing along quite nicely and then the traffic slowed, and then it stopped. I looked down at my GPS and I was still 5 km from the city centre, this can’t be right. 
I suffered this first gear rubbish for another 15 minutes and then made the decision ” I’m out of here”. No Luxembourg for me today, so I quickly consulted my GPS again and plotted a route north of the city. Jumped in a bus lane, took the first exit and freed myself from that chaos. How do people do that every day.
I picked up my route again on the eastern side of the city and it wasn’t long before I was enjoying beautiful twisty B roads in the sunshine ” this is more like it”.
I followed the Mozelle Riverfrom Mertert to Zell and was only about 50 km now from Bingen and my rendezvous with the Rhine.
I rolled down out of the country side and into bustling Bingen about 4 o’clock following my little blue arrow to the auto ferry, as my accommodation was on the eastern side of the Rhine.
Three Euro …no problem I’m onboard the ferry and straight away it struck me how fast this river actually does flow.
While checking into the motel I mentioned to the receptionist what a beautiful day it was…. her reply was it is the nicest day here in weeks, it was freezing here a few days ago. 
With that I tucked the big girl in, rummaged through my bag, located my shorts and browsed the town, enjoyed a meal…..yes not a bad day . Not a bad day at all…..
Two things I’m really looking forward to this morning, the first is to follow the Rhine north and the second is to locate as many castles as I can in this area. This is castle central and they are scattered on ridge tops on both sides of the river, each one unique with its own story to tell, some converted into accommodation whilst others left to the mercy of time and the elements. 
What surprised me is that the river is a working river. Quite substantial barges are constantly ferrying cargo along it..
My route north meandering with the river stopped at Koblenz as did the castles…so I turned north west for forestry bliss stopping only when I saw reception bars light up on my phone thinking ” I’d better book some where to stay tonight” I’m usually all over it, today was a funny one as I didn’t know how long I would be castle hunting.. ” Waldeck looks alright, on the lake with good reviews and a bargain 45 euro with breakfast.. Done.. A 30 km burst around the lake and I’m having a beer on the deck of the hotel … Another eventful day done and dusted..now to get someone to translate this menu or just close my eyes and point … It worked out fine last night…
Up early and I started packing the Big Girl who happened to spend the night in the barn, how fitting. Corrin & Anna served a lovely breakfast which I appreciated as it was going to be a long day.. I asked Corrin if I could take a few more photos before I left as their residence dates back to the 1800’s.. Corrin showed me a sign found in their loft which blew my mind.. The words were ..”Standort Kommandantur” which means “location of headquarters” .This Magestic rural BnB was once a command for the Nazis.. I missed saying goodbye to Anna as he was on his morning walk so I thanked Corrin so much for both their kind wishes and friendship..
So it’s off to the Australian memorial near Pozieres.. On the way I pass through the Town of Villers Bretonneux , where the Australian forces are well regarded for their accomplished tasks in keeping the town out of German hands 100 years ago., Australian flags can be seen in Windows throughout the town.. Definately makes you proud to be an Aussie..
Just out of town I cross the Somme river where Australian forces amongst British and French suffered horrendous casualties in the Somme valley.. There is a Museum in Albert that’s worth checking out..
Next it’s on to the Australian 1st Division Memorial in Pozieres.. Well this should get the emotions going .. This place is massive and immaculate, credit to the French and Aussies here..
You wouldn’t believe my timing, as I pulled in a ceremony was starting and I was asked by one of the organisers to stay ” you’re most welcome” he said ..
The service was brilliant and I’m so glad of my timing..
Just up the road is another Australian Memorial on an actual battleground.. It’s s memorial to the AIF ” Australian imperial Forces” for their heroic efforts saving the towns of Pozieres & Villers Bretonneux.. In 6 weeks they suffered 23,000 casualties.. Nearly as much as Gallipoli , which lasted for 8 months..
Ok I’m war historied out. So it’s a beautiful day and I’m in the French Countryside.. Time to ride some beautiful roads .
The section and a long one at that between Martigny east to Florenville was superb. You know it’s good when you see bikes coming the other way and motorcycle hazard signs.
I played too much and had to motorway it to my BnB north west of Bastogne.. Thank god my Hosts Barbara and Dave were so accomodating.. Barbara cooked me a typical Belgian dish of Meat, potato and an apple sauce which was brilliant.. Eased down with Local Belgian brew.. Good on ya Dave.. .. Buggered after a 500 km day I retired and thanked the bed for being so comfortable.. Lights out.
Waking like I’d just gone to sleep.. Nooooooo. it can’t be morning already.. I’m getting rather good at packing the Big Girl now.. Breakfast, thanks Barbara ., I’m off for a very short day.. But lots to see
I head south to Easy company memorial.. Donated by Tom Hanks to the 101st airborne Band of brothers,, .. In the wooded area behind the memorial you can see where they dig in to protect the town of Bastogne from the Germans..
Which can be highlighted further just a few kms farther south with s visit to the war memorial museum..
This isn’t any museum .. It is a MUST see if you are into history.. The exhibits are a 10 .. The audio commentary via headphones is sensational.. As you Walk through the 3D cinema studio stage sets and a thousand exhibits.. I’m hopeless at this stuff and tend to be rather quick in museums… But this one … I got there at 9.30an and didn’t leave until midday.. brilliant..,
ok. I need to check a few things on the Big Girl; Just maintenance checks.. And find somewhere to stay.. Booking. com to the rescue., sorted Out of town motel….done..
Today I weakened and set my alarm, well only because boarding to my ferry to France started at 8.00am – all my luggage to my bike was 2 floors up in the hotel and my bike in a compound across the road, so it wasn’t going to be a quick getaway
Boarding went smooth and after supervising the Big Girl being strapped down I went up stairs for a coffee.
It’s here I met 3 lads from the UK on bikes travelling to Anaheim via the Normandy beaches. What a coincidence – and after a chat It was soon agreed I ride with them for a while until I get the riding on the right side of the road sorted…
I followed them to Saint Mere Aglise, 30 km run from the ferry where D Day festivities were in full swing and there were people everywhere, soldiers, tourists and locals all celebrating the liberation of the town…The town also being well known for the Paratrooper hung up on the church steeple. His name was John Steele and has returned to the town since the war ended
I thanked the lads and said my goodbyes here as I wanted to visit the museum and didn’t expect them to be hanging around for me. ” You be alright then , riding now” my reply was ” she be right mate ” with a thumbs up thrown in.
After Sainte Mere Aglise I visited the American cemetery at Omaha beach – not really what I had pictured at all.. The setting with the sound of the beach in the background was surreal..
The immense sacrifice was overwhelming. As far as the eye could see were white crosses. Most had names but many bore the words , ” known only to God”. Looking out to the waves from where I stood one couldn’t even try to imagine what it must have been like storming the beach that day.
Looking at the beach I decided to go and find a private entrance somewhere that I could access the beach and go for a walk. Eventually I found a rocky access road that led me down where I could walk easily along the beach. Once again picturing what it must have been like…
Looking at my watch it was well and truly time for me to find my BnB accommodation. The GPS was saying only a few kilometres, so off I went following my little blue arrow, slowly homing in on its target. Arriving at my BnB I was pleasantly surprised at the rustic appearance and YES ….no stairs.
With a busy day and daylight until 9~ 930 I lost track of time and I was needing food , so back on the bike and head for the local village. Thankfully in France that one thing there is no shortage of.. Pick a cafe any cafe. It’s funny that when your desperate you will settle for anything but when there’s multiple choices you get fussy..come on PHIL just flip a coin.. Yep ok that one will do, there’s a few people inside so it must be good.
As I was ordering my meal a Belgian man nearby struck up a conversation after hearing my accent and he motioned for me to join him and his father for a drink….he proceeded to ask what I was doing in France and seemed interested in my travels and we talked about Sainte a Mere Aglise, the war, Australia amongst other subjects and found the whole thing quite moving when he genuinely thanked me, as if I had something to do with the liberation of Europe. I understand where he ( Limbourg Phillippe) was coming from and left it at that.. A genuinely lovely guy .
A quick dash back to my farmhouse accommodation where I reflected on the day, the biggest day I’ve had so far.
Up early and keen to hit the road I was packed and ready before breakfast was served . People were coming out of doors from everywhere, I didnt know the farm house was that big. With breakfast done, which was a selection of cereals, breads and coffee I needed to go back and finish around Omaha before I left town. I needed to get my sand sample, and a few more photos before the crowds started rolling in… An hour later I was leaving town towards Amiens through lush French countryside on a glorious sunny day. I couldn’t go past the town of Rouen which was devastated during the war though the Notre Dame Cathederal fared OK ..A magnificent structure that dwarfs everything around it
Dog Green Sector Omaha beach
I rolled into a little village just outside of Armiens late in the afternoon, located my BnB , and pleasantly surprised by the kind hospitality of the hosts by offering myself a seat with them for dinner…This just topped off a great day, sitting having a beer with Corrin and Anna, eating home made pizza and swapping stories …
Today is the final leg of my UK tour and Wendy at the Kestor Inn in Manaton served me up a lovely breakfast to get me on my way. A place comes along every now and then that does everything perfectly and this place is on that list…lovely accomodation, great food and good value. I would definately mark this down for another day.
A shorter day ahead so I had a sleep in as I only had to reach the channel ferry terminal in Poole.
I really didn’t even have a route sorted for this leg and after consulting with my GPS one unfolded in a few minutes. ” Yes this looks the goods, follow the southern coast” as its another clear day. Exeter and Bridport were my immediate destinations, then the coast road to Chickerell south of Dorchester.
It’s here I saw thatched roofs up close for the first time. In pristine condition I couldn’t help marvel at the craftsmanship and detail in these buildings.
Still on the Southern coast I make my way to Studland and its here you will find Corfe castle, well the remains of it at least. The building of the castle was started by William the conquerer In 1086 just after the Battle of Hastings and its seen its fair share of battles ever since.
.
On my visit there was a Falconry exhibition, which apparently dates back to medieval times. These birds are amazing to watch , attacking like a missile when they home in on there prey..
On my run into Poole I couldn’t help but think of my UK tour and how blessed I was with the weather and I still haven’t pulled my wet weather gear out of the bag and even the locals agree it’s not normally like this…
Arriving in Poole I do a quick check on the location of the ferry terminal, fill the big girl up as there was a fuel strike in France last week, and check in to my accommodation. Tomorrow It’s Hello France
Time to move on further south, say farewell to Kathryn and Mark who I had the pleasure of meeting and who made me feel so welcome. A lovely couple that’s for sure.
What can I say it’s another clear day and If I make One more without rain it will be a whole lap of the U.K.dry… Go figure
Kathryn and Mark live only 10 minutes from Chedder Gorge so I start my day with an early clean run through the gorge before the coaches start rolling through. Following the west coast south through Lynton to Bude and thought I might make Bocastle for lunch, but looking where I needed to be in the evening I had to divert from Bude. It was quite a pretty run along the west coast and the roads were light on traffic which suited me fine.
Feeling a little adventurous I opted for lesser travelled roads, single tracks through villages and yes some …hedge trimming again shooting up roads barely a car width wide and again on one occassion making one motorist reverse some distance to let me pass. She was pleasant about it waving as much to say I do this often.
Still feeling adventurous and with my accommodation firmly in sight on my sat Nav screen , .. out of the corner of my Eye I saw a track and sign ” public bridle trail”. Why not?….So I set the big girl to “Off Road Mode” with a push of a button and find my self taking a scenic short cut through long grass with a vague resemblance to a track that was a little narrow in places , well with my wide load any track would seem narrow.
Back on track . Yes single track all the way to Manaton where I am staying at The Kestrel Inn. I have not long checked in and the room is fantastic… Now I’m off for a pint….
After a well needed sleep at a brilliant little farmhouse BnB about 2 miles outside the town of Bala I was ready to take on the day. This BnB ” The Railway Cottage “was absolutely brilliant and my host Dusty could not have been more helpfull
After a really nice breakfast I hit the road with a route modification thanks to Dusty. I headed for a ride through the Snowdonian mountains which was only a stones throw away. It was a great call by Dusty and I was having a ball on the twisty mountain roads. The road was deserted, climbing to peaks where I could see for miles on such a beautiful day.
After leaving the mountains I opted for once again skipping from village to village rather than motorways. My sat nav was fixed on Lower Weare where I would be spending a night or two with Kathryn & Mark who happen to be family of Sandra. Sandra is a very special person back in OZ who has been helping me along on this trip from behind the scenes.
So after a 350 km run through for the first part magnificent Snodonian scenery and then relaxed village jumping followed by some serious hedge clipping via narrow single track farm roads and I mean narrow. You are not going to pass anyone on these blind cornered, hedge lined gun barrels. With riding on an Old Roman road just west of Worcester thrown into a great day for good measure.
I came to some road works where there was no through traffic. Thanks for the advanced warning fellas……I could swing the bike around and re route but the cars had to reverse several hundred metres. Then on the re route We fronted a farmer pullung a trailer. I could bail into a clearing but the car drivers had to find reverse gear again…bikes do have some advantages….I arrived in Lower Weare where I met Kathryn & Mark who welcomed me to their farm, showed me to my room and we swapped stories over a lovely dinner.
Friday is a rest day for me as I start sorting through my mi-rad of photos and videos, catch up on some washing and start to look at booking ferry tickets for my crossing to France, as well as checking my route to get to the ferry.
After a rest day in Carlisle it’s time to move on and it looks like being yet another sunny day which is a great bonus as today I explore the Lake District.
Steve, the host at my BnB set me on my way with a lovely breakfast and I thanked him for his generosity regarding keeping the big girl under lock and key for me.
I’m meeting up with a guy that I met at the Scottish border a week ago who very kindly offered to show me around the Lake District when I come down that way. Neil or as everyone knows him as “Rip” is a tremendous, generous and bloody funny guy who’s attitude towards life is pretty clear cut. There’s a time for work and there’s a time for play.
We started the day in Ambleside where we arranged to meet and work out a plan for the day..Rip said ‘ok let’s go ride some of my favourite mountain passes and let’s see from there…’.
Off we go and I’m so glad Rip joined me today. Not only does he know every short cut to get to these majestic mountainous passes, he knows all the great photo spots and cafe’s. I have my own personal tour guide…
We started off by heading towards Hardknot pass via Wrynose pass, each with their own amazing characteristics. I have heard a little about Hardknot previously and Rip reiterated the fact that once climbing the up hill hairpins ” don’t back off, just keep the gas on”..Ok this sounds interesting …
I was gob smacked at the snaking elevated passes unfolding in front of me and still find it hard to believe I’m doing it.
Next off we head over to Whinlatter pass which was no gimme either. Rip was telling me about one guy he took up there and refused to ride back down so called the AA to come get him…serious.
Ok now we are getting serious and Rip congratulates me that we we are about to accomplish the “Hardknott Tt” Riding 5 passes in a day
Next we head over to Honnister pass which looked spectacular in the distance and we visited the slate mine at the top…As I had already ridden Kirkstone pass on the way to the meeting point that makes 5 passes.
It was getting late and still had about 100 kms to get to my BnB in the Yorkshire dales so we hit the motorway and make good time parting with a big handshake and see ya later ….not goodbye. As he sets off back to the east coast via back roads….how good is this guy
I arrive at my BnB knackered, hungry and my nappy needed changing so I checked in jumped on the bike and rode 2 miles up the road to the pub, Ordered dinner and smashed down a pint.WHAT a day
Waking the next morning and looking out of the window didn’t look too inviting. Not raining but gloomy. So I savoured my eggs and coffee, packed the big girl and set off for more riding through the Dales.
My goal was to make Wales and I opted skipping village to village in cruise mode rather than the motorway. It was a good call as the villages are interesting. Most if not all are stone and slate, some built on the road to the extent you could take someone out if they stepped out of the door.
Just out of Buxton I took on ” Snake pass “, which looked angry up in the distance as you could not see the summit because of fog. What I couldn’t see till I reached the top was the massive cross wind that hit me for a few miles. On two occasions I thought ” Christ I’m gone”. The big girl knew what she was doing and got me threw so I shouted her some high octane at the bottom, not that regular rubbish.
An uneventful afternoon arriving in the Welsh town of Bala, where I stocked up on some supplies chatted to a few locals and headed out of town for 3 miles to my rural BnB…
…
With a 500 km southern dash yesterday. I am now sitting at the top of the Lake District and Yorkshire Dales where I will aim for tommorrow.Today is a rest day, or rather non ride day probably not by choice as I need to check what’s doing with my GPS .
For the last day or so it’s been defaulting back to battery and shutting down. I worked out its doing it when I accelerate in the upper rev range. I rewired the circuit from ignition to battery and I think problem solved , I guess I will find out tomorrow.
I went for a run out to just past Brampton in the afternoon to Birdoswald Roman fort. Also Hadrians wall.
Birdoswald farm is the location of the remains of a a Roman Fort and a great viewing of Hadrians wall.
Hadrians wall was constructed by the Romans in 119 Ad to seperate the Romans from the barbarians. Eighty miles long it stretches from east to west across England.
The fort is one of many scattered along the length of the wall. It housed the Roman emperor’s ( Hadrian) garisson … Quite surreal…
Carlisle Castle is only a short stroll from my BnB and well worth the walk. The castle is over 900 years old and has been the site of many battles between the Scots and the English. It was built during the reign of William the 11, son of William the conqueror
I thought I should be further south by now though tomorrow the forecast is looking good again so I will be looking forward to the lake district and the yorkshire dales
After my loop ride day being one out the box I wondered how I would top it, or if I could at all. At least in Scotland anyway.
I was off to a good start with the forecast again being clear and sunny, as well as my B&B host cooking me up a brilliant breakfast that saw me hit the road around 8 oclock, heading to the west coast just North of Ullapool where I would then turn south towards Ullapool .
On the way to Ullapool I saw a warning sign on the side of the road that said “Red squirrels next 3 1/4 miles and I thought “how big are these squirrels that you have to warn motorists”. Also not a good sight at all was a GS rider down…i won’t say anything except I hope he is OK. The picture tells the story…
A coffee break at Ullapool which is a thriving seaside village and ferry terminal for the Island port of Stornoway. From Ullapool the ride became awe inspiring as I followed the A 832 on a majestic coastal ride which felt like I was in riders heaven…I joined the A 896 to eventually work my around the coast to Applecross.
Applecross is or supposedly a ride you DON’T miss if you are in the area…well actually bike riders come from all points to ride the Applecross…I approached it from the West and climbed for an eternity along cliff edges on one lane single track , but once again on coming traffic was the usual pull over to the passing bays which added a challenging flavour to the ride…the coastal ride straight down the coast to the village of Applecross was spectacular and I thought “well, that was a great day , now to head out to my accommodation at lochcarron..”
.Ive never been more gobsmacked about a ride to date as this one….the ride out was descending to lochcarron via drop off hairpin bends and scenery to blow you away…I am so glad I made the effort to do the “Applecross”
Now for the accommodation…..I would have been sleeping in my tent if it wasn’t for someone very special back home ringing a million BnB’s, motels. Virtually anything with a roof was booked as it’s the Bank holiday weekend. Eventually the message got through to me to head for an address in Lochcarron where I must have got the last bed on the west coast….Sandra you are a gem….
This is where the fun starts. i arrive at the BnB and am greeted by a lovely lady Brenda. After a chat and a coffee Brenda proceeds to tell me she is also waiting on a French couple who are supposed to be checking in also. They are late and she has to duck out for an hour. As we hit it off so well I said I would let them in if you have to go out.. Yes great …Done. Anyway some time later two German cyclists roll in and said they are booked in. My reply was ” you’re not a French couple”. The look they gave me was priceless….Eventually all sorted and a good laugh….they were great guys actually.
The next morning saw a full kitchen with an Aussie , two Germans and a Scottish lady and a good laugh before we went our separate ways. I resigned myself to the fact that today was going to have to be a transport day and just make some distance to the next great area .’The Lake district “and “Yorkshire dales”, which will be my next challenge.
Four other riders were staying at the hotels accommodation last night which made for interesting conversation around the breakfast table this morning. Everybody was upbeat and keen for today’s ride in whichever direction it took, as the weather forecast was superb. Little did I know what lie ahead would be some of the best riding I’ve done in many years.
My route consisted of riding Due North from Lairg to Tonge through the centre of Scotland to the far north coast. Then follow the coastline in a westerly direction all the way around to Lochinver before heading inland back to my starting point in fact it was a loop day.
The north coast road and the inland roads are in essence single lane so oncoming traffic can be a problem. There are plenty of “pull in” bays at regular intervals so in essence if two vehicles are approaching each other, whoever gets to the Pull in bay first must wait and let the other vehicle pass..
The far northern regions of Scotland have surpassed my wildest imagination of how good it gets…. I love this place, that is until you get back to the pub and can’t understand a damn word of the conversation..
.
A later start today. Helen ( my new best friend) was making me a Scottish breakfast.it all looked great and carried me through the day. Rudy suggested a nice route to Inverness , as this was on my list it all worked out and only a short skip to Loch Ness.
I stayed in the loch area for probably a tad too long and there was no way I was going to reach the town of tongue tonight. There were dozens of bike riders around the loch and everyone was a bit chatty. My late start didn’t help either…
OK on the phone..booking .com and check out what’s on my route. Ok the hotel at Lairg it is then…..done. Now to follow that arrow on the screen again.
Once again I am spoilt with mouth water roads and scenery on my way into Lairg, stone bridges are in abundance in particular the Bonar bridge…another great day..
After two great days in Edinburgh, made even better by Air BnB hosts Bernice and Norri who went out of their way to make me feel at home.. Thanks guys I really enjoyed my stay..
with Norri – one of my AirBnb hosts – Edinburgh, Scotland
It’s time to delve further into the Scottish Highlands, but first a short trip to the town of Sterling. The reason is to visit the William Wallace monument and one of the battlefields at Stirling Bridge. It’s surreal to be standing on the very place some 700+ years later..
I spent most of the morning here and my accommodation is still a few hours away, so I’d better fire up the Big Girl and head for the hills. I aim for the town of Pitlochry via stunning roads undulating and twisting around Loch Venachar.
Twenty or so minutes later I threw that idea out the window and fired the Big Girl up. It was cold and I wanted to make that little arrow on the GPS move towards the town of Tomintoul a bit quicker than it was.
What an Adventure from Pitlochry! …….some of the roads have been featured on BBC’s ‘Top Gear’ where Clarkson tested the Aston Martin DB9…’FANTASTIC’.
Pulling into the BnB was a sight for sore eyes. Rudy greeted me at the gate and pointed at the garage… I was hoping that was for the bike and not my accommodation…
Luck would have it I was right.. Helen and Rudy run a very nice BNB and within minutes had a brewed coffee, cake and biscuits ready for me on the table..I was beginning to like Helen…
No rain on the roof this morning – that’s a bonus. Bags packed, a cup of coffee or three and hit the road by 7am. It sounds like a plan. Lucky I didn’t leave any later as the traffic was starting to build and it would have been an absolute nightmare. Today I leave the land of the hedges and ride 400 km to Edinburgh, Scotland.
I am not expecting anything special at the start of my ride today.. It’s mainly a ‘get out of town day’ and head for the Yorkshire Dales area.
The Dales didn’t disappoint,. Beautiful open flowing and undulating sweepers leading from village to village made even more special by clear blue skies above. I had noticed previously the dry stone boundary walls in the fields though the closer I was getting to the Scottish border they were becoming more prevalent. Thinking to myself what a mammoth effort to build those, I was getting a sore back just looking at them.
With the temperature in the high teens and clear skies above this just feels like it’s going to be a good day to be riding. The landscape is changing the further I push North and the roads are less populated.
The final 150 kms into Edinburgh was a great ride, ‘long may it continue’. Before long, I pass a sign ‘last cafe before Scotland’, and not long after I start to climb…eventually I see the Scotland sign on the side of the road and as I approach there’s quite a number of bikes gathered around. A rider by the name of Neil came over and was a friendly enough guy. We got talking and Neil wants to catch up when I get around to his area on the west coast and suggested a few rides he said are incredible,,. Ok – sounds good..swapped numbers and Neil introduced me to ‘ Joch the piper’ well sort of, more enlightened me about who he was and what he’s about…Before long ‘Joch’ had cranked up the pipes and was belting out some incredible notes. 
It felt good on top of that hill with those guys with the sound of bagpipes echoing around us. Neil left and I stayed on for quite a while talking to Joch before I had to leave as I still had a bit of distance between me and my accommodation…
I wasn’t prepared for the size of Edinburgh… It’s ‘Huge’ and with that comes traffic… You guessed it… Regardless of my total non interest with rush hour traffic. Edinburgh is a lovely city… The buildings are old and there are lots of them .. Everything just works. I tracked down my Air BnB details. Bernice & Norri were the perfect hosts … My accommodation first class…another day done and dusted…
My body clock still hasn’t synced with UK time yet and I woke for my first real day on the road early mumbling that ugly four letter word ‘Rain’. Luckily it stopped and the sky cleared as I was leaving. My mission for the day was to make my way to Kingston-upon-Hull, a 300 km journey through typical English roads and villages. What makes this interesting is the narrow winding roads often not wide enough to pass on and it’s common to have to give way to oncoming traffic.
![FW version: 1600 V1.11 FW name:ContourROAM UPDATE:N UPDATE_FW:N 1RES:P/1 1BR:H 1MIC:42 1SILENT:0 GLOBAL CAMERA NAME:ContourROAM DT:2016/04/15 18:27:28 FPS:30 CAMERA INFO CUID:1151010100110 USER DATA DATA:ContourROAM Camera DATA STRUCTURE UPDATE Y:YES N:NO UPDATE_FW Y:YES N:NO Format Settings Resolution(RES) (A)1920x1080 30fps (B)1280x960 30fps (C)1280x720 30fps (P/#)Still picture 5Mp captured at intervals of 1 picture every 1, 3, 5, 10, 30, 60 seconds (where the time is measured from start of picture to start of picture) Bitrate(BR) (H)High (L)Low Microphone Sensitivity(MIC) 0 ~ 42dB Silent Mode(SILENT) (0)Enable Beeps (1)Disable beeps Global Settings Frame Rate(FPS) (25)25fps (30)30fps Camera name(CAMERA NAME)[up to 20 characters] Name entered by user e.g. Jason's Contour Date and Time(DT) YYYY/MM/DD hh:mm:ss YYYY : 2011 - 2040 MM : 01 - 12 DD : 01 - 31 User Data(DATA)[up to 100 characters] 'User' value in the universal settings section where the line contents are simply preserved by the camera.](https://wheresphilsite.files.wordpress.com/2016/05/file0531.jpg?w=300&h=225)
Hedges are everywhere nearly on the verge of the roads which makes things interesting to say the least. I found myself confronted by a farmer pulling a cultivator around one corner. A quick mathematical calculation told me I wasn’t going to fit, so I took to the grassy knoll and the Big Girl didn’t even flinch as we passed. Probably all the extra ballast I have on board.
I worked my way north west to Coningsby before I needed a break. After a bite to eat and a drink for the Big Girl, I went for a walk and stumbled upon a castle. Tattershall Castle stood proud in the village and has done so since 1416 – can you believe that? In fact it’s one of the finest examples of preserved Medieval brickwork in England.
Back on the road I head towards Woodhall Spa as there is a monument here dedicated to 617 Squadron, better known as the Dambusters and describes some of their missions and heroics during World War II.
I better keep moving I’ve still got a lot of distance to cover so I head for the beautiful Lincolnshire wolds – mile after mile of fertile countryside and magnificent sweeping roads. The weather is perfect for riding ,it’s about 19° and reasonably clear skies.
One thing that I couldn’t help but notice is how courteous other drivers are over here. Nearly on every occasion when coming up behind someone they would pull to the left and let you pass even the truckies would do the same. In the villages people park on the road – effectively making the road one lane, vehicles have to give way but it just works, ‘amazing’.
Still on the road to Hull I had to stop at this amazing little castle. It was somewhere near Louth, still sitting proud as it has undoubtedly done for many centuries just a little tired now. There were no names or plaques of any description, I guess it just added to the mystery of the site.
I need to get to Hull so with my GPS locked on I was there in no time, found my accommodation, shouted myself a pint of brew and reflected on the day also wondering what tomorrow will bring as I cross into Scotland.
After two flights totalling 24 hours I finally arrived in the UK. At the start of the first eight hour link to Hong Kong the stewardess asked me if I would like to sit at the rear of the plane and have three seats to myself where I could lay down and stretch out. “No – I’d rather sit here next to the lady with the crying baby” …
Like hell I did!…… On the second flight I wasn’t so lucky, though I did sit next to a nice English couple that gave me some great pointers as they lived along the route I was travelling…
After landing at Heathrow, I had been told to be prepared for long queues and organised chaos….’Oh great’ … where actually it was the complete opposite. Within half an hour of landing I had bags in hand, cleared customs and was loading them into Steve’s car. Soon after we were having a good old chat (remember I hadn’t met Steve until now) and blasting along the M25 on our way to Felixstowe – which is where I had to pick my Big Girl up.. ‘YAY’!
200 kms later and still only 8.00 am, the Stig …. Sorry … Steve and I were in Felixstowe where we met Jo.. A lovely young girl from the shipping agency who knows her stuff. She suggested we go into town and pay my insurances and all the paper work would be sorted.
So off we go into Felixstowe town centre. Felixstowe is a lovely little seaside village and it was a good opportunity to grab one of those Full English breakfasts everybody keeps talking about. I can see why …..it was brilliant and just what I needed…
Insurance paid we were on our way back to the dock where I was reunited with my Big Girl … I had a sigh of relief to see her there waiting for me – unmarked and in perfect condition. I connected the battery which fired straight up… “YES!”…. 
We’re off again to my first nights accommodation, a short trip to Hollesley…. I followed Steve, (who still had most of my luggage) to my farm type cabin where we unloaded and Steve left me to get settled ….. Thanks mate you are a legend …. this guy even had essential supplies for me to take on my trip … What can I say ….
Unpacked, I decided to go for a short ride and check out the local area and I soon arrived in the little seaside town of Thorpeness where I got chatting to a few locals at a cafe ..local knowledge you can’t beat it….Back to my cabin buggered …time to catch up on lost sleep ….
At last the long awaited day has arrived. I travelled to Sydney yesterday so it was just a short journey to the airport this morning. Bags packed, checked and re-checked – how did I manage to accumulate 30 kilos of checked luggage? I’m going to have to carry this on the Big Girl so lucky there was some limitation.
I’m flying from Sydney to Hong Kong and then Hong Kong to Londonm Heathrow and arrive on Friday 20th May after almost 26 hours of travel time (just 2 hrs 20 minutes at Hong Kong. I get into Heathrow at the ungodly hour of 5.40am.
At Heathrow airport I’ve been told to keep an eye out for a guy in an orange shirt. This guy would be Steve and the reason he’s wearing an orange shirt is that we’ve never actually met so I can pick him out of the crowd. 
Somehow I keep having visions of this scenario
I thought he was wearing orange to make me feel more at home as my bike is orange.Naaaa not the case , so happens one of Steves cars is orange as well…. straight up we have things in common…
From the airport I’ll be heading to Felixstowe where I’ll be reunited with my beautiful Big Girl. Hope the weather is ok as I’ll have to re-connect the battery, check tyres and get fuel before heading to my first night at Hollesley where I’ll be staying for two nights – my first experience of AirBnb
It’s 4:30 am and I’m already out of bed. No trouble waking today – the day has finally arrived – it’s time to load the Big Girl in Sydney.It feels kinda funny after all the months and months of planning, paperwork and research. This is the first tangible step I’ve made towards my journey. 
On the trip down to Botany Bay I can’t help but feel how lucky I have been with the whole process of bike shipping – even lucky enough to score a Sydney shipment and a Sydney return some five months later. If I’d gone last year I would have had to take my bike to either Melbourne or Brisbane.
A fairly uneventful trip down – just the usual bottleneck in heavy traffic the closer and closer I get to Sydney. 
The GPS takes me right to the loading dock without me swearing at it once (this IS a Great day!) I was the first to arrive although there were about a dozen other bikes already waiting there. They must have been dropped off previously – ready for the shipping. It wasn’t long before other bikes started to roll in – guys from Brisbane and Melbourne who missed a shipment in their city as the way the system works is that the bikes leave the port where the most bookings are made, so lucky enough this year Sydney had the most bookings Therefore the people from Melbourne, Brisbane or wherever have to get their bikes to Botany Bay.
It wasn’t long before I was deep in conversation with some of the other riders. Everyone was in an upbeat mood I guess because we’ve all been waiting for this day to arrive and it’s really the first big step towards our adventure. I chatted to a fellow rider Graham – a top guy and a giant of a man – a Kiwi now settled in Australia. He turned up on his GS Adventure and is doing much the same route as me but starting two weeks earlier at the beginning of May. I’m hoping to cross paths somewhere along the route just to say hello have a beer or two and see how he is going.
By 8.30am there were bikes everywhere, people coming from all directions. It was great that we all helped each other – lending a hand with each other’s bikes while they were strapped in place. With the job done it was time to head for home but I just couldn’t help but look back at the bike and think “WOW” – the next time I see the Big Girl it’ll be in England in two months time …
Click any photo to view slideshow
WheresPhil - Current BLOG 